Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2000 15:12:42 -0500
Reply-To: John Lauterbach <jhlauterbach@EMAIL.MSN.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: John Lauterbach <jhlauterbach@EMAIL.MSN.COM>
Organization: Microsoft Corporation
Subject: Re: DEAD in my garage on New Year's Day
Right now, I have confirmed "spark" as whatever is going on line to #1 plug
will cause the strobe in the timing light to flash. I am having problems
getting a good resistance measurement on the Temp II sensor.
John Lauterbach
Macon, GA
----- Original Message -----
From: kenneth d lewis <kdlewis@juno.com>
To: <jhlauterbach@EMAIL.MSN.COM>
Sent: Sunday, January 02, 2000 2:11 PM
Subject: Re: DEAD in my garage on New Year's Day
> John;
> If you want to round up the usually suspects check the idle
> position switch and coolant temp sensor for proper operation. We has this
> on our 85 GL. It turned out to be a sticking advance mechanism in the
> distributor. Cleaned and oiled to fix.
> Drive Safely & Good Luck
> Ken Lewis<Kernersville,NC>86 VW crewcab;60 356B Coupe
>
> On Sat, 1 Jan 2000 14:19:14 -0500 John Lauterbach
> <jhlauterbach@EMAIL.MSN.COM> writes:
> >My '84 Vanagon (1.9L wasserboxer) began to get flaky on me Tuesday
> >morning.
> >It was missing a bit when I started it up. Ran fine to/from work.
> >When I
> >fueled up Tuesday night (BP premium as was prior fill-up), it wouldn't
> >start
> >right away, and I had to crank it with the accelerator pedal depressed
> >to
> >get it going. AOK after that. On subsequent days, each time I
> >started it
> >(engine cold either in the morning or leaving work in the evening) it
> >required same effort to get it started. Yesterday, when I left work
> >just
> >after noon, it wouldn't start. I could smell fuel, but engine
> >wouldn't
> >start.
> >
> >I tired the my usual fix of wiggling the cable going into the ECU and
> >tapping on the AFM, and it finally started. Ran fine all the way
> >home.
> >Since it is nice and warm here in Georgia today, I decided to do my
> >periodic
> >cleaning of the cable connection that leads into the ECU. After
> >thoroughly
> >cleaning it. started up the van. Started fine, although the idle was
> >weaker than I would have like it to be. I let the van idle and it was
> >soon
> >idling fine. While I was putting my tools away, it died.
> >
> >I tried restarting it and it ran briefly, and then died again. Here
> >is what
> >I have tried, found and corrected all with no luck.
> >
> >Tach moves slightly when engine is cranked.
> >Exhaust pipe smells of raw gasoline after engine is cranked.
> >Fuel pump (or what sounds like it) runs for about one second when you
> >turn
> >the key then shuts off. I think I hear in running when I crank the
> >engine
> >(is this normal)
> >I have tried a used ECU that I bought a few months ago from another
> >list
> >member who said it was ok when last used. Results same as with
> >original
> >ECU.
> >I took off distributor cap (new 5/99, Bosch). Rotor (also Bosch and
> >new
> >5/99) had black marked on contact. Contacts inside cap were heavily
> >blacked
> >and there was "black crud" on the cap equidistant between the
> >contacts. I
> >cleaned all contacts, cleaned inside of cap and reinstalled.
> >I have checked connection to Hall detector. Contact leading to
> >orange/black
> >wire was heavily corroded, cleaned it up.
> >
> >I won't be able to check for spark until my stepson gets back from
> >Canada
> >tomorrow unless I can do so with a timing light (Heathkit model from
> >the
> >late 70s, where do I put the different leads?).
> >
> >Any help would be most appreciated. Fortunately, I do not have to go
> >to
> >work on Monday.
> >
> >Thank you in advance.
> >
> >John Lauterbach
> >Macon, GA
>
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