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Date:         Mon, 3 Jan 2000 14:57:19 -0500
Reply-To:     Bulley <gmbulley@BULLEY-HEWLETT.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Bulley <gmbulley@BULLEY-HEWLETT.COM>
Subject:      Corroded Bolt Removal Process: Headstud Horror PROGRESS
Comments: To: James Ruch <jpeterruch@HOTMAIL.COM>

Thank my granddad...Cyril Bulley. He's the one that showed it to me.

Soak, Tap, Clean, Twist.

G. Matthew Bulley Bulley-Hewlett Corporate Communications Counselors www.bulley-hewlett.com Cary, NC USA 888.468.4880 tollfree

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-----Original Message----- From: James Ruch [SMTP:jpeterruch@HOTMAIL.COM] Sent: Monday, January 03, 2000 2:13 PM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: Headstud Horror PROGRESS

Hi All

Well it turns out that it is possible to extract broken-off headstuds without removing the engine; without even removing the cylinder "jugs". It took about five hours of effort applied across a week and a half but when that bugger started to turn... well just imagine the feeling!

Here's how I did it:

tools:

-Long (like a foot long) 3/16" drill bit -drift punch to fit snugly in drilled hole -square style e-z out to fit 3/16 hole -drill bit extension (the one I found accepted the square ez out end snugly and tightened down with allen set screws). -light machinist's hammer -penetrating oil -long center punch -dremel-like grinding attachments to fit bit extension

Most of these procedures were done at the end of the bit extension:

1. grind broken end of stud flat

2. use punch to mark center of bolt -- this required a couple of tries, grinding flat between punches that "missed the mark". Don't compromise here.

3. drill stud out at least 3/4" deep

4. apply penetrating oil, insert drift punch, and ping with hammer as described thouroughly in recent posting on corroded bolt removal (truly awesome technique... a million thanks)

5. tap "extended" e-z out into hole and turn until "mated"

6. start turning with "pulses" of torque. If the bolt doesn't turn easily, STOP

7. remove e-z out, apply more oil, and more pings

8. try the e-z out again. If it still doesn't turn easily, apply more oil and let it set. Again, it took me *ten day* before the threads "let go".

Okay... now I'm on the market for some studs. I need a lower stud (#2 in the torque sequence) that will fit a 1.9 l engine. Anyone got some? And I couldn't find torque specs in Bentley or Haynes. Anyone know how tight I need to put the stud into the crankcase?

Jim Ruch 85' Weekender; "Snugvagon" Alfred, NY

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