Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 12:19:42 -0800
Reply-To: Courtney Hook <chook@NISA.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Courtney Hook <chook@NISA.NET>
Subject: Re: Headstud Horror PROGRESS
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Here is a trick for removing broken studs etc. that sounds amazingly like
snake oil but is not. I tried this on my broken motorcycle case. Bill May
off the Vintagvw bug list is a VW guru, and I didn't believe him at first
either. You might not be able to do it all the time, as it requires heating
the stud very very hot.
1. Drill your stud with a drill and have the easy out ready to go.
2. Heat the offending stud extremely hot with a torch (kind of precludes
doing it to some engine parts of course)
3. Put ordinary paraffin (canning wax) on the stud and let it melt down into
the threads.
4. Use your easy out, and it will easily unscrew.
This works best when there is a stub left to grip with vicegrips, but the
stud is frozen. In this case you can do the paraffin wax trick, then use the
vice grips. I don't know why it works so well, but it is easily the best
releasing agent I've ever used on stubborn rusted studs on motorcycles and
Type 1 cases.
Regards,
Courtney
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Ruch" <jpeterruch@HOTMAIL.COM>
To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Sent: Monday, January 03, 2000 11:12 AM
Subject: Headstud Horror PROGRESS
> Hi All
>
> Well it turns out that it is possible to extract broken-off headstuds
> without removing the engine; without even removing the cylinder "jugs".
> It took about five hours of effort applied across a week and a half but
when
> that bugger started to turn... well just imagine the feeling!
>
> Here's how I did it:
>
> tools:
>
> -Long (like a foot long) 3/16" drill bit
> -drift punch to fit snugly in drilled hole
> -square style e-z out to fit 3/16 hole
> -drill bit extension (the one I found accepted the square ez out end
> snugly and tightened down with allen set screws).
> -light machinist's hammer
> -penetrating oil
> -long center punch
> -dremel-like grinding attachments to fit bit extension
>
> Most of these procedures were done at the end of the bit extension:
>
> 1. grind broken end of stud flat
>
> 2. use punch to mark center of bolt -- this required a couple of tries,
> grinding flat between punches that "missed the mark". Don't compromise
> here.
>
> 3. drill stud out at least 3/4" deep
>
> 4. apply penetrating oil, insert drift punch, and ping with hammer as
> described thouroughly in recent posting on corroded bolt removal (truly
> awesome technique... a million thanks)
>
> 5. tap "extended" e-z out into hole and turn until "mated"
>
> 6. start turning with "pulses" of torque. If the bolt doesn't turn
easily,
> STOP
>
> 7. remove e-z out, apply more oil, and more pings
>
> 8. try the e-z out again. If it still doesn't turn easily, apply more
> oil and let it set. Again, it took me *ten day* before the threads "let
> go".
>
> Okay... now I'm on the market for some studs. I need a lower stud (#2 in
> the torque sequence) that will fit a 1.9 l engine. Anyone got some?
> And I couldn't find torque specs in Bentley or Haynes. Anyone know how
> tight I need to put the stud into the crankcase?
>
> Jim Ruch
> 85' Weekender; "Snugvagon"
> Alfred, NY
>
>
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