Date:         Sat, 1 Jan 2000 14:19:14 -0500
Reply-To:     John Lauterbach <jhlauterbach@EMAIL.MSN.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         John Lauterbach <jhlauterbach@EMAIL.MSN.COM>
Organization: Microsoft Corporation
Subject:      DEAD in my garage on New Year's Day

My '84 Vanagon (1.9L wasserboxer) began to get flaky on me Tuesday morning.
It was missing a bit when I started it up.  Ran fine to/from work.  When I
fueled up Tuesday night (BP premium as was prior fill-up), it wouldn't start
right away, and I had to crank it with the accelerator pedal depressed to
get it going.  AOK after that.  On subsequent days, each time I started it
(engine cold either in the morning or leaving work in the evening) it
required same effort to get it started.  Yesterday, when I left work just
after noon, it wouldn't start.  I could smell fuel, but engine wouldn't
start.

I tired the my usual fix of wiggling the cable going into the ECU and
tapping on the AFM, and it finally started.  Ran fine all the way home.
Since it is nice and warm here in Georgia today, I decided to do my periodic
cleaning of the cable connection that leads into the ECU.  After thoroughly
cleaning it.  started up the van.  Started fine, although the idle was
weaker than I would have like it to be.  I let the van idle and it was soon
idling fine.  While I was putting my tools away, it died.

I tried restarting it and it ran briefly, and then died again.  Here is what
I have tried, found and corrected all with no luck.

Tach moves slightly when engine is cranked.
Exhaust pipe smells of raw gasoline after engine is cranked.
Fuel pump (or what sounds like it) runs for about one second when you turn
the key then shuts off.  I think I hear in running when I crank the engine
(is this normal)
I have tried a used ECU that I bought a few months ago from another list
member who said it was ok when last used.  Results same as with original
ECU.
I took off distributor cap (new 5/99, Bosch).  Rotor (also Bosch and new
5/99) had black marked on contact.  Contacts inside cap were heavily blacked
and there was "black crud" on the cap equidistant between the contacts.  I
cleaned all contacts, cleaned inside of cap and reinstalled.
I have checked connection to Hall detector.  Contact leading to orange/black
wire was heavily corroded, cleaned it up.

I won't be able to check for spark until my stepson gets back from Canada
tomorrow unless I can do so with a timing light (Heathkit model from the
late 70s, where do I put the different leads?).

Any help would be most appreciated.  Fortunately, I do not have to go to
work on Monday.

Thank you in advance.

John Lauterbach
Macon, GA