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Date:         Tue, 4 Jan 2000 22:05:38 -0500
Reply-To:     Dominique Cormann <kozmik@HOME.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Dominique Cormann <kozmik@HOME.COM>
Subject:      Re: Real Block heater for Frost-plug-Challenged Westies!
Comments: To: Marshall Ruskin <mruskin@PANGEA.CA>
In-Reply-To:  <004001bf55b7$32a95ec0$10e1e1df@marshall>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

I installed the 1500w model on my diesel rabbit. Warms up the coolant in 30 mins to the point that the coolant guage moves up a bit, and the glow plug light doesn't turn on, just like during the summer or when you've just turn off the car and don't need the glows to start the car. This when its -10c and below outside. Even at the hottest points in the summer the glow light still comes on for a bit before I start the car, so this tells me the coolant is hot like if I had just turned off the car, and wanted to restart it. Putting my hands on the upper rad hose, and other hoses confirms that things are HOT.

I got mine at TSC for $54 (canadian money). TSC is almost always cheaper then CTC.

I suggest cutting the smaller hose in the middle on the water pump. This is the inlet hose that is connected to the metal return line.

Put a T fitting here.

Then on the top side of the block, opposite the belt side, there is a hose that goes to the heater core. In the middle of this line I put a T fitting.

A hose runs from the T fitting down at the water pump to the block heater, then to the T fitting on the hose that goes to the heater core.

Heat water gets sucks from the water pump, which is the lowest point on the car, to the hose going to the heater core. The water at the top t fitting goes half to the heater core and half back to the block. It passes through the block and into the hose that goes the rad. Upper rad hose. So its circulating pretty well.

I'm sure the diesel ppl could use a setup like this since we share the same engine.

I haven't looked at a waterboxer so I don't know the routing of your hoses, but with a little thinking there is not reason you can't apply the same theory of sucking from the lowest point to the highest.

On Mon, 3 Jan 2000 00:53:09 -0600 Marshall Ruskin <mruskin@PANGEA.CA> wrote:

> Hi Volks: > > Today, I was at the Sunday hangout of the Canadian Cartel, (Canadian Tire) > and found 2 different models of EXTERNAL coolant heaters. Didn't know these > animals existed. One was made by Phillips-Temro, the other by an unknown > outfit. > > Here's the idea: > > 1. One model (Phillips) is 1000W, the other one is 1500W - lots of > heating power; > 2. They connect between the engine drain plug and the heater hose, or > 3. They connect between the lower rad hose and heater hose; > 4. Important for the unit to be installed very low - lower than the drain > plug if possible; (puts fluid pressure on the inlet side of unit) > 5. The cold coolant flows into the heater, and as it warms it rises, causing > a circulating action > 6. Both units are thermostatically controlled; > 7. Both units cost $69.00 CDN, if memory is correct. > > Now, I almost bought one, untill I started worrying about the install. > > To install it using the drain plug means cutting a hole in the push-rod > guard - to get access to the drain plug. > > Then - how long a hose would I need to reach the heater hose? > > Or - would it be easier to install it at the front, using the lower rad hose > and connecting to the heater hose from there? (my guess) > > Are there any good places to mount it near there? (It's about the size of a > Big Mac, except square) > > Any suggestions etc would be appreciated. > > Marshall Ruskin > 84 Westy "Iron Igloo" > Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada > Founding Member of "Vanagon's Anonymous"

-- ============================================================--------- Dominique Cormann Email: kozmik@home.com Homepage: http://kozmik.guelph.on.ca Diesel page: http://kozmik.guelph.on.ca/gtdproject 84 Rabbit D - daily driver 84 Rabbit GTD - work'in on it


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