Date: Wed, 5 Jan 2000 17:48:50 -0500
Reply-To: Bulley <gmbulley@BULLEY-HEWLETT.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Bulley <gmbulley@BULLEY-HEWLETT.COM>
Subject: Opening rear hatch from inside, was: Winter camping HEAT
Piece of cake.
Our 1976 had a fitting drilled and set for this on the original latch
mechanism; the Vanagon (to the best of my recollection) is set up the same
way.
Remove the panel on the rear door. Examine the locking mechanism on the
door. Press the button while the door is locked, and while it s unlocked.
Use your finger to close the latch (as if the door was closed. (If it is
identical to the Bay) you will see a part of the mechanism that is
pre-drilled to accept a 2-3mm cable, which, if pulled, will release the
latch, no matter what. We attached a cable there, drilled a small hole in
the "wood"/vinyl panel, and fed the cable through. Attached a T-handle (see
lawn-mower section of K-mart).
Even if the door is locked on the outside, you can open the door with this.
BEWARE: if you have tykes or imbeciles riding in the back of the van, they
CAN open the back hatch any time they please once you have this installed,
with dramatic results.
Cheers,
G. Matthew Bulley
Bulley-Hewlett
Corporate Communications Counselors
www.bulley-hewlett.com
Cary, NC USA
888.468.4880 tollfree
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-----Original Message-----
From: J. C. [SMTP:jcblues@YAHOO.COM]
Sent: Wednesday, January 05, 2000 4:43 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Winter camping HEAT
Happy New Year all--
I recently connected a wall thermostat to the gasoline
heater on my '84 Westy. So far the results are
excellent, staying plenty warm on nights in the teens.
The thermostat is in easy reach, mounted on the closet
wall, and the pop-top even has central heat. I'd be
interested in hearing any comments on this
modification--especially any specific problems that I
may not have forseen. The work is described in some
detail below.
A couple specific questions:
Has anyone insulated the Westy water tank? How?
Has anyone built or bought a mechanism to open the
rear hatch from inside?
Jim Carter
Enfield, NH
'84 Westy
HEATER TYPE is an Einspacher (spelling?). It's the
model that preceeded the BA6 and is very similar to
it, differing primarily in its having only 1 fuel pump
and a different glow plug style. (Bentley says it was
only installed on air-cooled vehicles, but not in this
case.)
WALL THERMOSTAT HOOKUP. The connection at the rear of
the heater-time-temperature control box (i.e., box w/
the green knob) has 8 wires; one of which is red and
one black. I connected a Hi-amp relay across those two
wires and a low-amp thermostat to the low amp input of
the relay. In operation, the thermostat closes at the
appropriate temp setting, which causes the relay to
close. This in turn activates the heater system.
The built-in thermostat in the control box still
operates. I leave it (green knob) at the highest
setting so that max heat is generated until the add-on
thermostat opens and shuts down the system.
The cool-down functions as normal, even if the wall
thermostat is turned off, as do the safety shut-off
mechanisms.
HEATER PREPARATION. Before using, I removed,
disassembled, & cleaned the heater.
ADDITIONAL MODIFICATIONS.
EXHAUST. I attached a flexible exhaust pipe & elbow to
the exh output of heater & ran to the driver's side.
Comes out between rear wheel & propane tank.
AUX BATTERY. I installed the largest auxilliary
battery I could find in a battery box on the top
carrier. Cables go through drain-hole; grounded to
carrier bolt, with 8-guage (+)wire connected to a
carrier-mount bolt that goes through the roof
(insulated w/ tape & rubber grommit). (+)cable runs
under headliner, along wall post fore of the sliding
door, and connects directly to (+) battery terminal.
This configuration meant that no new holes needed to
be drilled in the roof.
SAFETY. Combination CO/Smoke detector on ceiling of
van (Test these before installing: The First Alert I
bought didn't work; a Nighthawk works well). For a
fire escape, I open the rear hatch, click the latch
closed (so it won't lock) and close the door. Still
need a good way to insulate the crack that's left. HAS
ANYONE SEEN A WAY TO OPEN THE REAR HATCH FROM THE
INSIDE?
INSULATION. I cut bubble-wrap insulation (has foil on
both sides) to fit each window plus pop-top walls.
This works great, allowing the heater to work less &
conserving gasoline.
CENTRAL HEAT. Connected an expandable 3" PVC dryer
vent to the round heat output under driver's seat.
This stores easily in a small box and expands to 15',
enabling heat to be blown into the pop-top (or
wherever it's needed).
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