Date:         Sat, 1 Jan 2000 20:54:23 -0500
Reply-To:     John Lauterbach <jhlauterbach@EMAIL.MSN.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         John Lauterbach <jhlauterbach@EMAIL.MSN.COM>
Organization: Microsoft Corporation
Subject:      Re: DEAD in my garage on New Year's Day

Ken, thank you for your reply.  I had distributor oiled in October and
advance mechanism seems free (can twist rotor and it will snap back).
Temperature sensor was new last May.  I also had a bad cap and rotor back
then so it looks like something systemic has been going bad.  The cable from
the Hall detector to the idle stabilizer were in bad shape, and I replaced
those this afternoon with like parts from a used wiring harness that I had
but van still didn't start.  I plan on checking for spark tomorrow
afternoon.  I have a old neon bulb type timing light that goes between wire
from distributor and the spark plug.  If I don't have spark, I will see if I
can get one of the list vendors to O/N meet a new ignition control module.
If that doesn't work, I guess it will be time to get the van towed in the
four blocks to my mechanic so that he can put the scope on it.

Please let me know if you have any other ideas.

John
----- Original Message -----
From: kenneth d lewis <kdlewis@juno.com>
To: <jhlauterbach@EMAIL.MSN.COM>
Sent: Saturday, January 01, 2000 6:19 PM
Subject: Re: DEAD in my garage on New Year's Day


> John;
> If you want to round up the usually suspects check the idle
> position switch and coolant temp sensor for proper operation. We has this
> on our 85 GL. It turned out to be a sticking advance mechanism in the
> distributor. Cleaned and oiled to fix.
> Drive Safely & Good Luck
> Ken Lewis<Kernersville,NC>86 VW crewcab;60 356B Coupe
>
> On Sat, 1 Jan 2000 14:19:14 -0500 John Lauterbach
> <jhlauterbach@EMAIL.MSN.COM> writes:
> >My '84 Vanagon (1.9L wasserboxer) began to get flaky on me Tuesday
> >morning.
> >It was missing a bit when I started it up.  Ran fine to/from work.
> >When I
> >fueled up Tuesday night (BP premium as was prior fill-up), it wouldn't
> >start
> >right away, and I had to crank it with the accelerator pedal depressed
> >to
> >get it going.  AOK after that.  On subsequent days, each time I
> >started it
> >(engine cold either in the morning or leaving work in the evening) it
> >required same effort to get it started.  Yesterday, when I left work
> >just
> >after noon, it wouldn't start.  I could smell fuel, but engine
> >wouldn't
> >start.
> >
> >I tired the my usual fix of wiggling the cable going into the ECU and
> >tapping on the AFM, and it finally started.  Ran fine all the way
> >home.
> >Since it is nice and warm here in Georgia today, I decided to do my
> >periodic
> >cleaning of the cable connection that leads into the ECU.  After
> >thoroughly
> >cleaning it.  started up the van.  Started fine, although the idle was
> >weaker than I would have like it to be.  I let the van idle and it was
> >soon
> >idling fine.  While I was putting my tools away, it died.
> >
> >I tried restarting it and it ran briefly, and then died again.  Here
> >is what
> >I have tried, found and corrected all with no luck.
> >
> >Tach moves slightly when engine is cranked.
> >Exhaust pipe smells of raw gasoline after engine is cranked.
> >Fuel pump (or what sounds like it) runs for about one second when you
> >turn
> >the key then shuts off.  I think I hear in running when I crank the
> >engine
> >(is this normal)
> >I have tried a used ECU that I bought a few months ago from another
> >list
> >member who said it was ok when last used.  Results same as with
> >original
> >ECU.
> >I took off distributor cap (new 5/99, Bosch).  Rotor (also Bosch and
> >new
> >5/99) had black marked on contact.  Contacts inside cap were heavily
> >blacked
> >and there was "black crud" on the cap equidistant between the
> >contacts.  I
> >cleaned all contacts, cleaned inside of cap and reinstalled.
> >I have checked connection to Hall detector.  Contact leading to
> >orange/black
> >wire was heavily corroded, cleaned it up.
> >
> >I won't be able to check for spark until my stepson gets back from
> >Canada
> >tomorrow unless I can do so with a timing light (Heathkit model from
> >the
> >late 70s, where do I put the different leads?).
> >
> >Any help would be most appreciated.  Fortunately, I do not have to go
> >to
> >work on Monday.
> >
> >Thank you in advance.
> >
> >John Lauterbach
> >Macon, GA
>
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