Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 14:57:19 -0500
Reply-To: Bulley <gmbulley@BULLEY-HEWLETT.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Bulley <gmbulley@BULLEY-HEWLETT.COM>
Subject: Corroded Bolt Removal Process: Headstud Horror PROGRESS
Thank my granddad...Cyril Bulley. He's the one that showed it to me.
Soak, Tap, Clean, Twist.
G. Matthew Bulley
Bulley-Hewlett
Corporate Communications Counselors
www.bulley-hewlett.com
Cary, NC USA
888.468.4880 tollfree
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Get your FREE semi-private E-mail account, use your computer at work.
-----Original Message-----
From: James Ruch [SMTP:jpeterruch@HOTMAIL.COM]
Sent: Monday, January 03, 2000 2:13 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Headstud Horror PROGRESS
Hi All
Well it turns out that it is possible to extract broken-off headstuds
without removing the engine; without even removing the cylinder "jugs".
It took about five hours of effort applied across a week and a half but when
that bugger started to turn... well just imagine the feeling!
Here's how I did it:
tools:
-Long (like a foot long) 3/16" drill bit
-drift punch to fit snugly in drilled hole
-square style e-z out to fit 3/16 hole
-drill bit extension (the one I found accepted the square ez out end
snugly and tightened down with allen set screws).
-light machinist's hammer
-penetrating oil
-long center punch
-dremel-like grinding attachments to fit bit extension
Most of these procedures were done at the end of the bit extension:
1. grind broken end of stud flat
2. use punch to mark center of bolt -- this required a couple of tries,
grinding flat between punches that "missed the mark". Don't compromise
here.
3. drill stud out at least 3/4" deep
4. apply penetrating oil, insert drift punch, and ping with hammer as
described thouroughly in recent posting on corroded bolt removal (truly
awesome technique... a million thanks)
5. tap "extended" e-z out into hole and turn until "mated"
6. start turning with "pulses" of torque. If the bolt doesn't turn easily,
STOP
7. remove e-z out, apply more oil, and more pings
8. try the e-z out again. If it still doesn't turn easily, apply more
oil and let it set. Again, it took me *ten day* before the threads "let
go".
Okay... now I'm on the market for some studs. I need a lower stud (#2 in
the torque sequence) that will fit a 1.9 l engine. Anyone got some?
And I couldn't find torque specs in Bentley or Haynes. Anyone know how
tight I need to put the stud into the crankcase?
Jim Ruch
85' Weekender; "Snugvagon"
Alfred, NY
______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com