Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 21:34:42 -0500
Reply-To: Scarlet Semko <damosem@BELLSOUTH.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Scarlet Semko <damosem@BELLSOUTH.NET>
Subject: Re: RV'S & Vanagon list
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Hello Eric,
First let me say that I would have given you my honest opinion even when I was
actively in the business, but perhaps I have some new credability now tht I am not
directly involved. There certianly is that to consider.
I agree with your analysis that a mid 1980's, Class C motorhome, 27 footer would
likely be a good value (a good buy) in today's market. Further, since you require
sleeping accomidations for 6 people you are limited to a Class C ( They don't build
a production Class A that wil sleep 6 comfortably. True if you ad the dinnet, and
the sofa you can get to 6, but the dinet is not comfortable for anyone but a child,
and the sofa rarely is comfortable at all.).
Regarding floorplans: try to find a unit with a walk around bed in the rear, as well
as the overhead bunk. Under no conditions get one with a corner bed corner bath.
Resale on that floorplan will hurt you, alot.You may have to go to a 30 foot length
to get the floorplan with the walk around bed in the rear. But since your already
looking at a 27 foot, you should not have a problem going to a 30 footer. You will
never notice the difference in driving a 30 foot as opposed to a 27 foot. You will
not be able to notice any difference, at all in the driving charecterestics. The
national and state park systems will allow up to 30 foot motorized units in their
parks, so there will be no problem there either.
Regarding Class C's selling better than Class A's, I would have to say that that IS
NOT the case. More Class A's are built than Class C's, because they sell better
nationally. What I believe that your seeing on the lots is an accurate reflection of
the market. If there are more Class A's on the lots, it's just because there are
more out there than Class C's.Bottom line is the Class A's do sell better.
Some things to look for would be:
Around the overhead bunk, check for leaks "real good". Check around any window
area's very good. Class C's have a tendency to leak there, and when they do they rot
out the interior of the walls. Check good because they can look good, but when you
push on the interior of the walls, if there is any dry rot your hand will go right
through.
In general, look around where the ceiling/ wall come together. Be suspicious of any
stains on the ceiling or the wall (water stains where it leaks). If the ceiling or
the walls has been replaced, or painted walk away. Even if it feels hard, walk away.
They could have just replaced the the wall surface, and not the interior. This is
common, because once the leak causes the dry rot it is one hell of a hard job to
replace all the interior structure, and most shops will simply take down the ceiling
or the wall and replace it only. It wil look good for a time, but not long, and not
long if the unit is bumping down the highway.
Stand at the front or rear coroner of any fiberglass sided unit , and look down the
side. Your checking for bubbles in the wall surface. It is called delamination. It
is when the fiberglass (filon) has seperated from the luan which it was glued to.
Windows, doors (even compartment doors), water heater, furnace openings are all
places where you will see this first usually but it can happen to any part of the
wall. Trust me, just walk away. A fortune to fix properly, and if there is
delamination there is interior wall damage. Actually the older aluminum sided units
were better than the fiberglass sided ones. They will not delam.
Look carefully at the roof, real carefully. The older units had alum. roofs. They
would get stress cracks in them from the movement of the unit. Almost impossible to
see with the naked eye. Often folks painted them with a product called cool seal, a
semi elastic product that would work for a while, but mostly had to be repainted
every year. If you see leaks on the inside and the roof has cool seal on it, you'll
never find the crack. The outside crack could be in one place and show up somewhere
else inside.
The later units have a "rubber roof". Think of this as a big inner tube that is
stretched and glued on to the roof. The up side is no stress cracks, and that it can
be repaired easily if punctured. You fix it just like you fix an inner tube, you
glue a patch over the hole. Under the rubber roof is usually plywood. Go up on the
roof, walk around look at it make sure there are no holes rips or tears in it. If
there is, the wooded structure under it should be suspect.
Check all gaskets. The roof air conditioner, the roof vents. make sure that they are
plyable, not hard and cracking.
Of course make sure that all the appliances are in working order. A new refrigerator
is about $1,000.00. Don't go for the "it's probably just a circuit board". If so,
tell them to fix it. But cut your best deal, financially, then tell them to fix it,
they will if it is just the board. But odds are its not, and they may not want to
spend the dollars, and if they don't you shouldn't want to either. Make sure that
they perform a "systems check", and will guarantee you that all systems are
operational, in writing, of course. Holding tanks are not too expensive, but the
labor will kill ya. Propane systems are critical, think of the RV as a 40 pound bomb
going down the highway (thats about how much propane the average Class C will carry,
40 pounds, a big booooom).
In your negotiations consider that the dealer will have a 38 percent mark up between
what he paid for it and what he's asking for it. Because he will. So figure this
out, and figure what to offer him and if he says no, walk away. Trust me here. He
has a system for selling, you better have one for buying. He's not emotionally
involved, and you better not be either. Make your offer, stand firm. Let him make a
profit, but I wouldn't let him make the whole months profit on me.
When it comes time to sell, remember that you will get more for it in season that
out of season. Like the dealer, price your unit alittle more than what you will take
for it, and be prepared to have alot of dealers come to look at it, and that they
will try to steal the unit.Again, don't be emotional. There is an old saying in
sales "who ever is in there stress zone is giving up money". It is a true saying,
believe me "it is true".
Well, at this point I don't know what else to tell ya. If you have any further
questions about a particular unit, or, whatever, just ask.
Ron Semko
Orlando, Florida
eric.henning@us.abb.com wrote:
> Ron,
>
> I've been meaning to e-mail but never got aroind to it, now that you are on the
> "outside" of RV sales seems like a good time.
> I presently have a 1980 Westy that I planned on taking on a 6 week crosscountry
> trip this summer. I have no doubt it would perform
> excellently. However, my parents have offered to buy an RV that will fit all
> six of us if I bring them along. I will probably sell the RV after the trip and
> give them the money. Seeing as I drive a 20 year old VW now, what are your
> thoughts on using a mid-80's RV ? There seems to be plenty low mileage, nice
> condition RV's available. Leaning toward a Class C (27 footer). Seems to me
> Class A's don't re-sell very well, at least around these parts. Dealers lots
> are full of Class A's but Class C's are few and far between. Any thoughts would
> be appreciated.
>
> I am in the Philadelphia, PA area FYI
>
> eric.hening@us.abb.com
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