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Date:         Mon, 10 Jan 2000 21:34:42 -0500
Reply-To:     Scarlet Semko <damosem@BELLSOUTH.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Scarlet Semko <damosem@BELLSOUTH.NET>
Subject:      Re: RV'S & Vanagon list
Comments: To: eric.henning@us.abb.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Hello Eric,

First let me say that I would have given you my honest opinion even when I was actively in the business, but perhaps I have some new credability now tht I am not directly involved. There certianly is that to consider.

I agree with your analysis that a mid 1980's, Class C motorhome, 27 footer would likely be a good value (a good buy) in today's market. Further, since you require sleeping accomidations for 6 people you are limited to a Class C ( They don't build a production Class A that wil sleep 6 comfortably. True if you ad the dinnet, and the sofa you can get to 6, but the dinet is not comfortable for anyone but a child, and the sofa rarely is comfortable at all.).

Regarding floorplans: try to find a unit with a walk around bed in the rear, as well as the overhead bunk. Under no conditions get one with a corner bed corner bath. Resale on that floorplan will hurt you, alot.You may have to go to a 30 foot length to get the floorplan with the walk around bed in the rear. But since your already looking at a 27 foot, you should not have a problem going to a 30 footer. You will never notice the difference in driving a 30 foot as opposed to a 27 foot. You will not be able to notice any difference, at all in the driving charecterestics. The national and state park systems will allow up to 30 foot motorized units in their parks, so there will be no problem there either.

Regarding Class C's selling better than Class A's, I would have to say that that IS NOT the case. More Class A's are built than Class C's, because they sell better nationally. What I believe that your seeing on the lots is an accurate reflection of the market. If there are more Class A's on the lots, it's just because there are more out there than Class C's.Bottom line is the Class A's do sell better.

Some things to look for would be:

Around the overhead bunk, check for leaks "real good". Check around any window area's very good. Class C's have a tendency to leak there, and when they do they rot out the interior of the walls. Check good because they can look good, but when you push on the interior of the walls, if there is any dry rot your hand will go right through.

In general, look around where the ceiling/ wall come together. Be suspicious of any stains on the ceiling or the wall (water stains where it leaks). If the ceiling or the walls has been replaced, or painted walk away. Even if it feels hard, walk away. They could have just replaced the the wall surface, and not the interior. This is common, because once the leak causes the dry rot it is one hell of a hard job to replace all the interior structure, and most shops will simply take down the ceiling or the wall and replace it only. It wil look good for a time, but not long, and not long if the unit is bumping down the highway.

Stand at the front or rear coroner of any fiberglass sided unit , and look down the side. Your checking for bubbles in the wall surface. It is called delamination. It is when the fiberglass (filon) has seperated from the luan which it was glued to. Windows, doors (even compartment doors), water heater, furnace openings are all places where you will see this first usually but it can happen to any part of the wall. Trust me, just walk away. A fortune to fix properly, and if there is delamination there is interior wall damage. Actually the older aluminum sided units were better than the fiberglass sided ones. They will not delam.

Look carefully at the roof, real carefully. The older units had alum. roofs. They would get stress cracks in them from the movement of the unit. Almost impossible to see with the naked eye. Often folks painted them with a product called cool seal, a semi elastic product that would work for a while, but mostly had to be repainted every year. If you see leaks on the inside and the roof has cool seal on it, you'll never find the crack. The outside crack could be in one place and show up somewhere else inside.

The later units have a "rubber roof". Think of this as a big inner tube that is stretched and glued on to the roof. The up side is no stress cracks, and that it can be repaired easily if punctured. You fix it just like you fix an inner tube, you glue a patch over the hole. Under the rubber roof is usually plywood. Go up on the roof, walk around look at it make sure there are no holes rips or tears in it. If there is, the wooded structure under it should be suspect.

Check all gaskets. The roof air conditioner, the roof vents. make sure that they are plyable, not hard and cracking.

Of course make sure that all the appliances are in working order. A new refrigerator is about $1,000.00. Don't go for the "it's probably just a circuit board". If so, tell them to fix it. But cut your best deal, financially, then tell them to fix it, they will if it is just the board. But odds are its not, and they may not want to spend the dollars, and if they don't you shouldn't want to either. Make sure that they perform a "systems check", and will guarantee you that all systems are operational, in writing, of course. Holding tanks are not too expensive, but the labor will kill ya. Propane systems are critical, think of the RV as a 40 pound bomb going down the highway (thats about how much propane the average Class C will carry, 40 pounds, a big booooom).

In your negotiations consider that the dealer will have a 38 percent mark up between what he paid for it and what he's asking for it. Because he will. So figure this out, and figure what to offer him and if he says no, walk away. Trust me here. He has a system for selling, you better have one for buying. He's not emotionally involved, and you better not be either. Make your offer, stand firm. Let him make a profit, but I wouldn't let him make the whole months profit on me.

When it comes time to sell, remember that you will get more for it in season that out of season. Like the dealer, price your unit alittle more than what you will take for it, and be prepared to have alot of dealers come to look at it, and that they will try to steal the unit.Again, don't be emotional. There is an old saying in sales "who ever is in there stress zone is giving up money". It is a true saying, believe me "it is true".

Well, at this point I don't know what else to tell ya. If you have any further questions about a particular unit, or, whatever, just ask.

Ron Semko Orlando, Florida

eric.henning@us.abb.com wrote:

> Ron, > > I've been meaning to e-mail but never got aroind to it, now that you are on the > "outside" of RV sales seems like a good time. > I presently have a 1980 Westy that I planned on taking on a 6 week crosscountry > trip this summer. I have no doubt it would perform > excellently. However, my parents have offered to buy an RV that will fit all > six of us if I bring them along. I will probably sell the RV after the trip and > give them the money. Seeing as I drive a 20 year old VW now, what are your > thoughts on using a mid-80's RV ? There seems to be plenty low mileage, nice > condition RV's available. Leaning toward a Class C (27 footer). Seems to me > Class A's don't re-sell very well, at least around these parts. Dealers lots > are full of Class A's but Class C's are few and far between. Any thoughts would > be appreciated. > > I am in the Philadelphia, PA area FYI > > eric.hening@us.abb.com


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