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Date:         Mon, 17 Jan 2000 13:29:32 -0800
Reply-To:     Danny Fuller <dfuller@BIOMAIL.UCSD.EDU>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Danny Fuller <dfuller@BIOMAIL.UCSD.EDU>
Subject:      Rough/nonexistent idle
Comments: To: vanagon@vanagon.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Recently our '90 Carat has developed problem with idle. It starts OK, runs OK for half a minute or so, then the idle oscillates lower and lower, finally stalling out. It drives OK until I come to a red light , then it stalls, unless I shift to neutral and keep it revved slightly (auto transmission). I have replaced plugs, rotor, cap, O2 sensor. I checked the throttle switch, found it wasn't closing on idle, so spent quite some time getting it adjusted right on the money (no easy feat). Still idles the same. I have checked all of the input into the ECU, everything seems to be within spec (temp sensors, etc.).

I have found that the idle stabilizes if I turn on the A/C or bridge the leads to the power steering pump switch, which kicks in the idle stabilizer. My question is, is the idle stablizer supposed to function at all times, with increased function under a load such as A/C, or does it function only with the increased load. Mine vibrates whenever the key is turned on. Bentley has some diagnostic tests for the idle stabilizer, which involves measuring amperage when a single connector is connected or disconnected, can't seem to located this single connector. It was supposedly moved in the later models to in front of the air flow meter, but all I find there is a single into a double connctor. Is this the one? I have found that changes in the later models are not always well documented in Bentley (my stock brakes don't match anything illustrated in Bentley) I'm hoping someone can give me a hint as to wire colors, type of connector, etc.. I should point out that I have a CA smog check looming in a month and a half, so just bridging the connectors isn't really an option, and the idle stabilizer components (valve and controller) are too expensive to just replace without knowing they're the problem. Any ideas, anyone?

Danny Fuller


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