Date:         Tue, 18 Jan 2000 10:35:07 -0500
Reply-To:     "Richard Meissenheimer (by way of Derek Drew
              <drew@interport.net>)" <bonnie_baker@TELUS.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         "Richard Meissenheimer (by way of Derek Drew
              <drew@interport.net>)" <bonnie_baker@TELUS.NET>
Subject:      Euro-Elec: UPDATE 91 Volkswagen Vanagon, idiot lights, oil light
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed

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1991 Volkswagen Vanagon 2.1 L

Trans:         Standard
Mileage:       200,000 km
VIN:           WV2ZB0256M

Misc Data:     Synchro
Affected Item: oil light

_________________________ UPDATE: __________________________

Hi group: Thank you so much for the rsponses already
received. I should point out that the engine I installed
was a used engine, not a rebuild. As many of you pointed
out, two identical switches are not correct. (By the way,
you cannot go by the colour of the switches - I have 2
switches p/n 056 919 081 C - one is black and the other
brown) So I installed the correct switch in the port
between the pushrods (why does the syncro have that brace
running the length of the vehicle underneath?) and tested
the system, still with 10w-30 oil. At hot idle the oil
light flashed at all engine speeds, although with no
buzzer. So I changed to 20W50 oil and found the correct
adapter for my oil pressure gauge, which I attached to the
port below the water pump (easier to get at) Here are the
numbers: at cold idle 60psi, increasing to 75 at higher
engine speed. At hot idle 10psi, at 2000rpm hot 22psi. In
my opinion, this engine has a problem. What do you think?
Again thanks for the responses.

____________________ ORIGINAL MESSAGE: _____________________

After installing replacement engine, oil light flashes when
engine is warm and idling. I installed a new grey oil
pressure sensor in the port below the water pump. This did
not change anything. I then found out that there is a
second oil pressure sensor between the push rod tubes on
the left side of the engine. I replaced that one with a
known good grey switch. This did not change anything. I
have not checked the actual pressure because I do not have
the necessary adapters for my oil pressure gauge, and also
because of the inaccessibility of the ports. I measured the
resistance of the switches and found them to be 2.5k with
the engine off and about 400 with the engine running. Can
anyone explain to me how this system works? Things were so
much simpler when VW's used air to cool their engines!
Thank you in advance.

Richard Meissenheimer
bonnie_baker@telus.net
Technician/Shop Foreman
Lakeside Auto Sales
Nelson, British Columbia, Canada

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