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Date:         Wed, 19 Jan 2000 01:51:47 +0100
Reply-To:     Per Lindgren <lindgre@ONLINE.NO>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Per Lindgren <lindgre@ONLINE.NO>
Subject:      Re: DON'T: Remove "flaps" in Arizona?
Comments: To: Bulley <gmbulley@BULLEY-HEWLETT.COM>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

What would people say if the wbx rebuilder said "I just junked the radiator and all the water lines and welded the thermostat shut! All those waterlines and that funky old radiator is just leaking anyway. You just need water in the injun, and you are ready to go!" Would you trust this guy? I wouldn't even look at him!

PerL 87 Syncro 112i

Bulley wrote:

> Let me get this straight, do you think at the High School dropout at BAP is > smarter than a bunch of snivel-lipped German engineers with slide rules and > pocket protectors? I don't THINK so. VW is not stupid, and the cooling > system on your van is perfect, just as designed. You have nearly 25 years > of design improvements on the type 4 motor in your Vanagon. Go back and > dope-slap that BAP chap. > > Removing the thermostat/cable/flaps only INCREASES the oil temperature by > 40-80++ degrees. The flaps must be present to shove the cooling air though > the comparatively restrictive oil cooler. Without them the air exits > through the heads. So you have cooler heads when you spin a main bearing or > loose a rod. Great. > > Twice, I've driven my old 1976 2.0 with five people and all our luggage > 75++mph across SoCA, AZ, NM, UT, TX and down into Baja in July/August > without any problems. If you want great cooling, make sure EVERYTHING VW > put on that motor is just the way it was the day it was built. Make sure > ALL the tin is in place, and not bent. Make sure the foam seal around the > engine is making a tight seal(Critical!). Make sure the heat shield under > the cooling fan (above the muffler) is in place, and not decomposed. If you > have all the tin off, use copper Permatex between the pieces on > re-assembly. Make sure your spark-plug boots are in place, and seal > correctly. > > If all that still leaves your temps too high, add a HUGE oil cooler behind > your front grill, using 1/2" copper lines going and coming (don't get rid > of the stock cooler, add one). > > Finally, as a general rule, VW designers aren't stupid. It is rarely a good > idea to lay their expensive education and expertise in the dumpster in > favor of your own or some other weed-chewing, tree-leaning tool-box toter. > > G. Matthew Bulley > Bulley-Hewlett > Corporate Communications Counselors > www.bulley-hewlett.com > Cary, NC USA > 888.468.4880 tollfree > > "I, the undersigned, shall forfeit all rights, privileges, and licenses > herein and herein contained, et cetera, et cetera . . . fax mentis > incendium gloria culpum, et cetera, et cetera . . . memo bis punitor > delicatum!" It's all there, black and white, clear as crystal! -Wonka > > -----Original Message----- > From: Sean Garrett [SMTP:SGarrett@MI.STATE.AZ.US] > Sent: Tuesday, January 18, 2000 11:10 AM > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > Subject: Remove "flaps" in Arizona? > > Upon inspection of my "flaps" in my recently acquired 81 Westy I see that > they are wired and rigged and bent. I was told by a local parts place (BAP) > that everyone in Phoenix just removes them. Then you just let it warm up a > little longer. > Are there any other components that work in combination with the cooling > system that might be severely affected? > Should I do this?


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