Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 13:05:29 -0800
Reply-To: Karl Wolz <wolzphoto@WORLDNET.ATT.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Karl Wolz <wolzphoto@WORLDNET.ATT.NET>
Subject: Re: altenator light
Naah, Vanagons didn't have shift indicator lights. My '84 was doing the
same thing. Light on at startup (normal) and then at around 3500rpm (not
normal). Turned out the brushes were on their last legs. Replace brushes -
light goes out.
Karl Wolz
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bulley" <gmbulley@BULLEY-HEWLETT.COM>
To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Sent: Monday, January 24, 2000 10:34 AM
Subject: Re: altenator light
> One question at a time, as follows below...
>
> G. Matthew Bulley
> Bulley-Hewlett
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>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jason Willenbrock [SMTP:pooncerelli@HOTMAIL.COM]
> Sent: Monday, January 24, 2000 12:22 PM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: altenator light
>
> i currently purchased an 82 california emmission aircooled (rebuilt 40k
> 1.9)westy with a few bugs that i am currently working out. one that
really
> has me stumped is the altenator light. this light will go on with every
> start up and go off when i give it a little gas. maybe a diode gone bad?
>
> Completely normal VW alternator operator. Energizer wire doesn't trigger
> until circa 1,200 rpm.
>
> in addition, the light will go on at high rpm when i need to shift into
> another gear. once i do shift up the light will go off. i tried
> tightenting the belt with no avail. anybody got any clues as to what is
> going on.
>
> (PURELY A GUESS) your light performs exactly the same way a shift light
> does in other VW's of that era. Check your owners manual to make sure your
> alt light doesn't do double duty as a shift light. And make sure you
> haven't overtightened that belt, as this will cost you your alt bearings.
>
> also i have a very loud clacking noise (like lashing valves)
> which seems to be coming from the fan.
>
> Doubtful. Check the fan mounting bolts, and try pulling on the fan to make
> sure it is tight on the crank. They *can* come loose, but (IME) one of the
> bolts will come out and ruin the fan in the process.
>
> i first thought that it was the
> valves but after popping off the valve cover and feeling the valves were
> tight i started to look in other directions.
>
> Not a sure test. Reset the valve lash per Bentley or Haynes, but only use
> 1/2 to 1 turn after contact rather than 2 turns.
>
> would the lifters or cam
> follower make such noises, if so would a compression test reveal problems,
> i
> did a test and compression was 125 all around.
>
> Test could point to symptoms. 125 sounds a tad low, which could indicate
> the lash is wrong. Or it could indicate that the oil was cold, or the
> throttle plate wasn't wide open. 125 isn't bad, but 140 is what I would
> expect on a 40k motor. Did you reset the lash before the test or no?
>
> i am very confused. the
> noise is most pronounced at idle, when throttling it does increase at a
> faster rate then seems to disappear.
>
> Sounds like either valves or *maybe* an upper rod bearing. But I would
lean
> heavily toward valves. Sounds like a lifter or two pumping up after
> sitting. Run a can of Marvel Mystery oil through it for a week then drain
> the oil and put in the proper weight and a Knecht or Mann filter and see
if
> it doesn't stop.
>
> finally, i am wondering about lazy oil
> pressure. when i had the valve cover off i ran the engine and noticed that
> oil was coming out of the push rods very lazily if you will, oil pressure
> light never comes on except at intial test. is this common or am i just
> paranoid?
>
> The latter.
>
> i thought oil would be spewing out like crazy.
>
> See above. Oil doesn't really spew in the upper end. If the motor (and
oil)
> are really hot, and you are running at high speeds, you would see some
> crazy spewage.
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