Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 12:32:12 -0500
Reply-To: EMZ <vw4x4@FYI.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: EMZ <vw4x4@FYI.NET>
Subject: Re: Lugnut worries + Repost of Secret to removing stuck nuts
In-Reply-To: <004c01bf6756$b1f2f000$7c14a2d1@dell>
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
I have used these in the past. They work great. One problem.
They work so good, after it is off , you can't get the nut out
of the socket. This makes it a one shot deal. $$8.00 is to much
to spend for a one time tool. So, out come the blue wrench!
Eric 86-VW4x4
vw4x4@fyi.net 72-240z
Pittsburgh, PA USA 1936-Chrysler
On Tue, 25 Jan 2000, Davidson wrote:
> Bulley,
> There is a special tool for removing damaged lug nuts and even wheel locks
> without their keys... it takes about 30 seconds.... most good tire shops
> have these... it is their business to be able to get nuts off and they see a
> lot of these situations.
> Bill
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bulley <gmbulley@BULLEY-HEWLETT.COM>
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
> Date: Tuesday, January 25, 2000 8:59 AM
> Subject: Lugnut worries + Repost of Secret to removing stuck nuts
>
>
> >Stop wasting your time.
> >
> >Drive to a hardware store and buy a (hardened) steel nut with an inside
> >diameter the same size as the outside of your mangled lugnut. Take the van
> >to a garage, and have them nest the new nut around the remains of your
> >lugnut, weld the two together. Then they can use the new nut to remove the
> >first. Prolly $20, well spent.
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> >REPOST OF SECRET TO REMOVING STUCK NUTS
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> >Folks-
> >
> >My grandfather was an inventor, and a lead machinist for Chrysler during
> >her glory days (1920's-1965). He taught me how to use a slide rule, and a
> >few other things. One of the most important lessons he taught me was how to
> >completely avoid breaking off metal fasteners and rounding bolt heads. If
> >you never want to break a stud again, follow the wisdom of my grandfather,
> >Cyril Leonard Bulley (1903-1987).
> >
> >(Background, explained in common English).
> >Metal bolts, studs, and nuts that have been fixed in position for a while
> >don't stick because they are too tight. Therefore trying to remove them by
> >turning them is dumb. You simply can't apply enough torque to the fastener
> >without damaging the tool, or the fastener, creating HOURS of work or
> >needless delay in chasing replacements.
> >
> >Fasteners stick because of covalent or ionic bonding (I forget which, or
> >maybe it is both). But the point is, when you force two piece of metal into
> >close contact, and hold them there, PARTICULARLY when there is moisture and
> >heating/cooling present, they start forming tiny bonds between the
> >molecules of the two parts. This is really easy to see on old corroded
> >parts, but even on shiny "new-looking" parts, the bonds can be VERY strong.
> >Much stronger than you. But as I said, the way to break those bonds is NOT
> >strength.
> >
> >The way to loosen them is to use vibration. Yep. You heard right.
> >VIBRATION. You see, those little bonds can stand up to constant rotational
> >pressure (torque) very well. But they are extremely FRAGILE in the face of
> >focused vibration of the bolt threads up and down. Here is how to apply
> >focussed vibration, so you will NEVER break another fastener again.
> >
> >Let's say that the fastener is an outer CV joint bolt...the type with the
> >12-pointed star head that is buried inside your trailing arms. Tough nut?
> >You bet.
> >
> >RULE NUMBER ONE: Soak it. Saturate with a penetrating oil for at least one
> >day. Brand doesn't matter. Use whatever has worked for you in the past.
> >Just let it do its thing for at least a day. Tougher bolts, and longer
> >threads: do it for up to a week. You know you are going to work on it, so
> >start loosening stuff up NOW. Re-saturate just prior to commencing the
> >loosening procedure, and at least once during the process below.
> >
> >Next, we are going to create our vibration. Using a 12" ratchet extension
> >and the 12-pointed star attachment, fully seat the tool into the fastener.
> >If there is a lot of crud in the fastener, pick it out with a toothpick or
> >such.
> >
> >RULE NUMBER TWO: Tap it. Next, using a small hammer, and fair blows, begin
> >firmly tapping the end of the ratchet extension, as if to drive the tool
> >into the bolt. The key here is to use firm taps, NOT heavy blows. You don't
> >want to damage the tool or the fastener, and you are looking for a
> >vibration, not an earthquake. Larger bolts/nuts would take harder blows,
> >smaller; lighter.
> >Tap if you were driving a picture-hanging nail into a cheap sheet rock
> >wall. Tap- tap- tap- tap- tap- tap- tap- tap- tap- tap- tap- tap- tap- tap.
> >200 times. That is right TWO-HUNDRED TAPS, or for about 2 minutes. You want
> >to tap fairly quickly, like the sound of the bell when the stock market
> >closes, or like the bell at a train crossing gate. About 120-140 bpm. Pause
> >to re-apply penetrating oil, and to contemplate the fact that you are
> >saving yourself the abominable misery of a broken bolt. Now tap for another
> >2-minutes, or 200 taps.
> >
> >RULE NUMBER THREE. Clean it. Now we are nearly ready for your moment of
> >glory. But first, you MUST make sure that the mating surface between the
> >tool, and the fastener is antiseptically clean. Now some of you are saying
> >"Why the h*ll should I try to clean those bolt heads...have you SEEN where
> >they are???" I sure have. But I'd hate to break off one of those buggers.
> >So I clean the tool and bolt head COMPLETELY with brake-cleaner spray, and
> >a toothpick, if necessary. Do not settle for even one speck of grease or
> >dirt. Any contamination on the mating surfaces can either lubricate, or
> >cause mis-alignment of the tool and the fastener, inviting calamity.
> >Brak-kleen is cheaper than Easy-outs, and easier to work with.
> >
> >RULE NUMBER THREE also implies that you will have tools that are in good
> >condition. Sockets, screw drivers, hex-heads that are worn, rounded, or
> >damaged are not fit to attempt to loosen bonded fasteners...place all of
> >your damaged tools in a small kit and give it to your child to play with.
> >If your tools are rounded, you WILL round the head on bolts, etc.
> >
> >Finally, with your clean tool, mate the tool and the fastener. Press firmly
> >in the proper direction to keep the tool mated securely with the fastener,
> >and apply a single, heavy push of torque to loosen the bolt. AMAZING, Huh?
> >Came right off without strain. It always will.
> >
> >This same procedure will work for any bolt, nut, screw, hex-head, even
> >plumbing fittings. For nuts, (like the 15mm head nuts on a type 4) I tap
> >200 times with a 15mm socket (which chiefly vibrates the washer and the
> >bolt). Then I switch to a junked 14mm (which does not fit over the nut
> >faces, but focuses the vibration on the nut), for 200 more taps. Use your
> >best judgement.
> >
> >It is a habit you will get in that will save you hundreds of hours if you
> >work on old junk frequently. Soak it, Tap it, Clean it.
> >
> >G. Matthew Bulley
> >Bulley-Hewlett
> >Corporate Communications Counselors
> >www.bulley-hewlett.com
> >Cary, NC USA
> >888.468.4880 tollfree
> >
> >"I, the undersigned, shall forfeit all rights, privileges, and licenses
> >herein and herein contained, et cetera, et cetera . . . fax mentis
> >incendium gloria culpum, et cetera, et cetera . . . memo bis punitor
> >delicatum!" It's all there, black and white, clear as crystal! -Wonka
> >
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: Chris Gkikas [SMTP:theerion@GATOR.NET]
> >Sent: Tuesday, January 25, 2000 7:42 AM
> >To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> >Subject: Lugnut worries continue
> >
> >Well, I smashed and banged with a cold chisel for about forty minutes.
> >The damn thing just softly disfigured into a squished up mess and still
> >won't break off. I think I buggered the threads a bit, since they're
> >showing on one little spot on the stud. The endeavor came to a stop
> >when I started to feel the 17F wind chill outside (raining, too) and
> >smashed the hell out of my index finger (still hurts this morning). :(
> >
> >Any advice here? What's the story with replacing the stud?
> >Thanks,
> >Chris
> >http://www.geocities.com/Athens/9860/bus.html
> >
>
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