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Date:         Mon, 24 Jan 2000 13:34:19 -0500
Reply-To:     Bulley <gmbulley@BULLEY-HEWLETT.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Bulley <gmbulley@BULLEY-HEWLETT.COM>
Subject:      Re: altenator light
Comments: To: Jason Willenbrock <pooncerelli@HOTMAIL.COM>

One question at a time, as follows below...

G. Matthew Bulley Bulley-Hewlett Corporate Communications Counselors www.bulley-hewlett.com Cary, NC USA 888.468.4880 tollfree

"I, the undersigned, shall forfeit all rights, privileges, and licenses herein and herein contained, et cetera, et cetera . . . fax mentis incendium gloria culpum, et cetera, et cetera . . . memo bis punitor delicatum!" It's all there, black and white, clear as crystal! -Wonka

-----Original Message----- From: Jason Willenbrock [SMTP:pooncerelli@HOTMAIL.COM] Sent: Monday, January 24, 2000 12:22 PM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: altenator light

i currently purchased an 82 california emmission aircooled (rebuilt 40k 1.9)westy with a few bugs that i am currently working out. one that really has me stumped is the altenator light. this light will go on with every start up and go off when i give it a little gas. maybe a diode gone bad?

Completely normal VW alternator operator. Energizer wire doesn't trigger until circa 1,200 rpm.

in addition, the light will go on at high rpm when i need to shift into another gear. once i do shift up the light will go off. i tried tightenting the belt with no avail. anybody got any clues as to what is going on.

(PURELY A GUESS) your light performs exactly the same way a shift light does in other VW's of that era. Check your owners manual to make sure your alt light doesn't do double duty as a shift light. And make sure you haven't overtightened that belt, as this will cost you your alt bearings.

also i have a very loud clacking noise (like lashing valves) which seems to be coming from the fan.

Doubtful. Check the fan mounting bolts, and try pulling on the fan to make sure it is tight on the crank. They *can* come loose, but (IME) one of the bolts will come out and ruin the fan in the process.

i first thought that it was the valves but after popping off the valve cover and feeling the valves were tight i started to look in other directions.

Not a sure test. Reset the valve lash per Bentley or Haynes, but only use 1/2 to 1 turn after contact rather than 2 turns.

would the lifters or cam follower make such noises, if so would a compression test reveal problems, i did a test and compression was 125 all around.

Test could point to symptoms. 125 sounds a tad low, which could indicate the lash is wrong. Or it could indicate that the oil was cold, or the throttle plate wasn't wide open. 125 isn't bad, but 140 is what I would expect on a 40k motor. Did you reset the lash before the test or no?

i am very confused. the noise is most pronounced at idle, when throttling it does increase at a faster rate then seems to disappear.

Sounds like either valves or *maybe* an upper rod bearing. But I would lean heavily toward valves. Sounds like a lifter or two pumping up after sitting. Run a can of Marvel Mystery oil through it for a week then drain the oil and put in the proper weight and a Knecht or Mann filter and see if it doesn't stop.

finally, i am wondering about lazy oil pressure. when i had the valve cover off i ran the engine and noticed that oil was coming out of the push rods very lazily if you will, oil pressure light never comes on except at intial test. is this common or am i just paranoid?

The latter.

i thought oil would be spewing out like crazy.

See above. Oil doesn't really spew in the upper end. If the motor (and oil) are really hot, and you are running at high speeds, you would see some crazy spewage. ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.PrivateFreeEmail.com


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