Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 08:52:53 -0800
Reply-To: "Buettner, Peter" <PGB@DOLBY.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: "Buettner, Peter" <PGB@DOLBY.COM>
Subject: Changing Syncro front springs (was: Control arm bushings)
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
The first time I did this job it took me about 4 hours for each side. And
that with lots of help from Steve Schwenk. This was without removing the
stabilizer bars etc. Since then I've been talking to several people about
this job. I think Mark Drillock gave me the tip with the stabilizer bars.
So the second time around it took me lees then 2 hours for the first side.
I almost managed to get the second side changed in under 1 hour (!!!!). But
then disaster struck! I was tightening the last bolt (the big 14mm that
holds the lower end of the shock) and was thinking already about the nice
cold beer that I would be opening in a minute. So I just kept tightening
and tightening, and nothing happened. The bolt just kept turning. Of
course you guessed right, the thread was messed up! The first time I
changed the shocks I had to tap this thread because I couldn't get the bolt
in. I used Steve's spark plug tab which was the right size, but, as it
turns out, the wrong pitch. 1.25 instead of the required 1.5. Big mistake.
It took me over one week and almost $100 to get a thread repair kit for that
size and a matching new bolt (I could have had a second pair of springs for
that money). Many thanks to the patient Steve Schwenk. My Bus was stuck in
his garage for almost two weeks.
Here are some more notes about changing the springs that I think might be
useful:
1. If you don't think of replacing the bushings of the thrust arm, DON'T
TAKE THEM OUT! Just loosen the nut and don't touch the bushing. I took the
bushing out on the first side and couldn't get it back in properly. In the
process of trying I messed up the metal sleeve of the bushing. The bushing
is now back in, but in the wrong position and with a bent sleeve. On the
second side I didn't touch the bushing and it was fine.
2. Getting the shock into the top mounting is kind of tricky. I used all
the 3/8" ratchet extensions I could find and put them together into one big
extension. I put the female end of it through the hole from the inside of
the van (you have to remove the seat, swivel base and the rubber stop that's
in the hole) and over the top of the shock. This serves as a nice guide for
the shock. I then used a hydraulic jack on the bottom of the control arm to
push the whole assembly up. Eventually the shock will pop through the to
mounting hole. Keep pressing until the tip of the shock stops making
progress. This will not be enough to assemble the rubber donut. Use the
washer and the nut to pull out the remaining length of the shock. Take the
washer/nut out and assemble the rubber donut, washer and nut in the right
sequence.
3. The first side took longer because I had to figure out where all the
stabilizer and thrust bars are located and where to detach them etc.
Bentley helps a great deal. It's all pretty well illustrated there.
4. I did this work on my 1990 Syncro. As Mark Drillock pointed out, older
Syncros have a different control arm assembly. I can't say if all this
applies to older Syncros
Hope this helps all the folks with new Syncro springs out there.
Peter
90 Syncro Westy
SF, CA
-----Original Message-----
From: BRENT CHRISTENSEN [mailto:bchristensen@INFOGENESIS.COM]
Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2000 4:26 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: Control arm bushings
I've always heard that this is a mother of a job, and I was planning to
bring all the parts to my mechanic and let him do the "grunt" work. But
Peter, you make it sound so easy...
(I thought it was a 4-hour, greasy, sweaty, 4-busted-knuckle,
I'll-never-do-that-again job)
Brent Christensen
'89 GL Syncro Westy
Santa Barbara, CA
-----Original Message-----
From: Buettner, Peter [mailto:PGB@DOLBY.COM]
Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2000 3:50 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: Control arm bushings
Spring compressors are not needed for changing the Syncro springs/shocks.
In fact you'll have a hard time getting them onto the spring! There's no
space in there. Simply remove the stabilizer bar and loosen the thrust arm.
The control arm will drop down enough so that you can easily take the spring
out. Don't forget to remove the bracket that holds the brake hose first.
Otherwise the full weight of the control arm is going to be supported by
only the brake hose!
Have fun with you new springs!
Peter
90 Syncro Westy
SF, CA
-----Original Message-----
From: Doktor Tim [mailto:doktortim@ROCKISLAND.COM]
Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2000 2:09 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: Control arm bushings
At 08:51 AM 01/26/2000 -0800, you wrote:
>In getting ready to put in my new Syncro springs and soon-to-come OME
>shocks, I want to replace any other pieces of the front end that make
sense.
>My primary concern is getting rid of the irritating squeakiness.
>
>2. Is there anything else I should repair/replace while I'm at it?
Stabilizer bar has bushings at the attaching points to the lower arms and
where it is affixed to the chassis. The thrust arms have a coupla big
bushings on the front. Any of these can squeek when they get age hard and
or deformed and worn. Power brush all the metal washers to remove
corrosion. If they are pitted, replace them.
Do not use a $29.95 coil spring compresser from J.C. Whipme, or Harbor
Freight. Very dangerous energy is stored when compressed enough for removal
and installation. Use a quality brand name tool. Rent one if you hafta.
It's kinda like a loaded gun. Always know where not to put hands and heads
and knees and feet at all times.
>3. Is there any way to keep the new bushings from getting squeaky with
time?
Rub a thin film of silicon paste on them, SylGlide, etc.
>
>I'll probably do the front brakes, too.
Scrutinize the brake hoses. If they feel supple with no cracking or bulges,
ok. If they are more than 10 year old originals, consider replacing them
out of course.
T.P. Stephens aka Doktor Tim
San Juan Island, WA
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