Date: Sun, 6 Feb 2000 08:42:11 -0500
Reply-To: Bob Donalds <bostneng@FCL-US.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Bob Donalds <bostneng@FCL-US.NET>
Organization: Boston Engine Exchange
Subject: Re: New engine - Oil lite is red
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
John Rodgers wrote:
>
> My new engine just installed in my "88GL has now been test run. All
> gauges normal, all fluids normal. Mahle oil filter installed. On start
> up, valve train rattled and clacked for 1hr 15 min and then settled
> down. That is how long it took for the lifters to load up with oil and
> self adjust. After that all appeared well. Ran really good.
>
> On the way home from the shop...about half-way....while cruising at 55
> mph...in 4th at 3000 rpm. the oil light came on....flickered a few
> times, then went out. I sat bolt upright.....can't tell you what went
> through my mind. I watched! in a few more moments it flickered again.
> Then over time it got progressively worse. I had personally had checked
> the oil and it was up to the dipstick mark.
>
> I listened to the engine, no clattering, just smooth running. The engine
> temp indicator needle was pegged right on top of the low level warning
> light. That was a full needle width cooler that before overhaul. No
> indication of imminent engine failure.
>
> Then I noticed that any time I let the engine rpm drop to idle, the red
> oil light would go out. If I stepped on the gas and kicked the engine
> rpm up the red light would come on.
>
> The red light would also come on going uphill, but would go out when
> going down hill. But that was only for a time. By the time I got home,
> the uphill vs downhill thing made no difference. It was just "on".
>
> I'm totally mystified. Would appreciate any input on this. Needless to
> say my frustration level is quite high at the moment.
>
> Thanks
>
> John Rodgers
> "88GL driver with a new wbx and a red oil pressure light.
John
a couple of things come to mind did you replace both of the oil
pressure switches and could it be that that there are the wrong ones or
are they on the wrong holes. if they are switched to the wrong hole that
might give you this affect. does the light come on when the key is
turned on if not that might indicate they are switched.
the switch between the push rods should be brown and the # is 056 919
081 C the switch at the rear of the engine is grey and the part # is 068
919 081 A.
do you have an oil pressure gauge I would start there. when I rebuild
an engine I bolt a section of bell housing with a starter attached and
make oil pressure right on the stand this gives me a chance to check for
oil leaks and build oil pressure. I see 30 to 55 pounds cranking oil
pressure depending on the charge of the battery im using
The rest of the list of possible reasons for low oil pressure are
the big ends of the con rods distorting over time and the extra
clearance drops the pressure when the engine warms up. the next is the
Victor rintz Gasket sets have the wrong thickness gasket for the oil
pump cover this will give you 1/2 the oil pressure the proper gasket
gives. the oil pressure relief plunger could be stuck in the bypass
position
the lifters took over an hour to quiet down thats a lot longer than it
should take. did you let the engine Idle after it was started that would
do it. the engine needs to run at 1500 or so rpm for the first 1/2 hour
I find that reving the engine in that time helps the lifters get pumped
up. preloading the lifters can make it harder to get them to fill up.
hope this helps call me if you feel the need
Bob Donalds
http://www.bostonengine.com
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