Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 23:20:37 -0500
Reply-To: "Karl M." <thewestyman@MINDSPRING.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: "Karl M." <thewestyman@MINDSPRING.COM>
Subject: Re: [Syncro] Welding up 16" rear trailing arms
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
I would be up to the task, having 20 plus years experience in all sorts of
fabrication and welding. Also have a TIG welder that would be oh-so-nice to
use on these. Actually, before this recent discussion came about, I had
eventual plans to make a set up for my own Syncro. I would not use a sawzall
though, way too crude for this. I have access to an industrial water-cooled
bandsaw that would be a better choice.
Karl Mullendore
Westy Ventures
1987 Westfalia Syncro TD 'Otto'
1988 Audi 80 Quattro
----- Original Message -----
From: Derek Drew <drew@interport.net>
To: <Syncro@onelist.com>; <VANAGON@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Sent: Tuesday, February 15, 2000 2:50 PM
Subject: [Syncro] Welding up 16" rear trailing arms
> From: Derek Drew <drew@interport.net>
>
> Ok everybody. Our knowledge of the issue of special rear trailing arms has
> progressed to the point that I think we now know what needs to be done to
> get these things.
>
> Option A: Buy new trailing arms from a German VW dealer for about $2,600.
> (including shipping)
>
> Option B: Have someone on the list who is credible and known to us go into
> the 16" trailing arms business.
>
> It turns out that all SDP does to make these is to cut the factory
trailing
> arms (think Sawzall) and then welding in a box shaped piece of metal to
> extend their length.
>
> We need somebody on the list to become an expert in the fabrication of
> these (think: super safe overkill engineering/welding).
>
> The operation should be exceedingly simple:
>
> 1. Cut rear trailing arm with sawzall
>
> 2. Install two halfs into a jig that keeps the alignment exactly the same
> as before, but so there is a 2.5" (?) space between the cut halves.
>
> 3. Slide a huge piece of square heavy metal into the spaces in both halves
> and then weld this in place.
>
> Who would like to become the first USA manufacturer of these?
>
> It would seem that the job itself is exceedingly simple, and would cost,
> say, 1/20th as much as the dealer option.
>
> >X-Sender: smitht@pop.unb.ca
> >X-Mailer: QUALCOMM Windows Eudora Light Version 3.0.5 (32)
> >Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 15:40:37 -0400
> >To: Derek Drew <drew@interport.net>
> >From: Tim Smith <smitht@unb.ca>
> >Subject: Re: [Syncro] tires/gears/speeds/RPM spreadsheet
> >
> > >If this is true, then possibly I boobed things by getting the 6.17
gears
> > >instead of 5.xxs.
> >
> >never!! can't go too low. Try changing the 4th gear ratio to Weddles
0.70
> >version, for the 31" tires. I'm curious too!
> >
> > >hitting the battery box and I am not sure I want to find alternate
> > >locations for the batteries. If your math is correct, and my 31"
maximum
> >
> >Hmmmm, stiffer/taller springs would easily shift the suspension downward
> >another 3", can't see that being much of a problem clearing the boxes.
> >Need a computer drawing/model to mess with and check fits.
> >
> >
> >
> > >size is correct, then I would have strange gearing: my top speed on the
> > >highway will be 65mph or something? Yuk. I'd rather not drive on the
> > >highway above 3900 rpm because I noticed that the oil temp goes up a
lot by
> > >the time you hit 4000.
> >
> >Yup, I like 3200, needle at 12 o'clock seems correct to me. At higher
RPMs
> >the oil in sump is likely being flailed about by the crank, hence the
extra
> >heating (and some power loss)
> >
> > >I don't mind cutting and welding the rear trailing arms as per the
recent
> > >email on the syncro list. The implication is that that is all SDP does
> >anyway.
> >
> >
> >Gotta watch this. OK to do but you have to re-heat treat to restore
> >strength. Essentially a controlled cooling down period so the metal
> >regains it's proper strength. Typically cut/MIG weld, then take oxy-acet
> >torch and heat entire region to dull red. this lets any local highly
> >stressed areas 'relax' and get rid of the warpage stresses due to the
> >initial welding. Then the cool down to make sure the alloy strength gets
> >back to the factory design strength.
> >
> >
> >bye, Tim
>
> _______________________________________________
> Derek Drew New York, NY
> CEO & Co-Founder
> www.ConsumerSearch.com
> 80 South Street, 2nd Floor
> New York, NY 10038
> drew@interport.net
> 212-580-6486
>
> Alternate numbers for the industrious phone caller that wants to try every
> avenue: 917-848-6425 (cell); 202-966-7907 (Work), 212-580-4459 (Home),
> 202-966-0938 (Home).
>
>
>
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