Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 14:50:47 -0500
Reply-To: Derek Drew <drew@INTERPORT.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Derek Drew <drew@INTERPORT.NET>
Subject: Welding up 16" rear trailing arms
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Ok everybody. Our knowledge of the issue of special rear trailing arms has
progressed to the point that I think we now know what needs to be done to
get these things.
Option A: Buy new trailing arms from a German VW dealer for about $2,600.
(including shipping)
Option B: Have someone on the list who is credible and known to us go into
the 16" trailing arms business.
It turns out that all SDP does to make these is to cut the factory trailing
arms (think Sawzall) and then welding in a box shaped piece of metal to
extend their length.
We need somebody on the list to become an expert in the fabrication of
these (think: super safe overkill engineering/welding).
The operation should be exceedingly simple:
1. Cut rear trailing arm with sawzall
2. Install two halfs into a jig that keeps the alignment exactly the same
as before, but so there is a 2.5" (?) space between the cut halves.
3. Slide a huge piece of square heavy metal into the spaces in both halves
and then weld this in place.
Who would like to become the first USA manufacturer of these?
It would seem that the job itself is exceedingly simple, and would cost,
say, 1/20th as much as the dealer option.
>X-Sender: smitht@pop.unb.ca
>X-Mailer: QUALCOMM Windows Eudora Light Version 3.0.5 (32)
>Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 15:40:37 -0400
>To: Derek Drew <drew@interport.net>
>From: Tim Smith <smitht@unb.ca>
>Subject: Re: [Syncro] tires/gears/speeds/RPM spreadsheet
>
> >If this is true, then possibly I boobed things by getting the 6.17 gears
> >instead of 5.xxs.
>
>never!! can't go too low. Try changing the 4th gear ratio to Weddles 0.70
>version, for the 31" tires. I'm curious too!
>
> >hitting the battery box and I am not sure I want to find alternate
> >locations for the batteries. If your math is correct, and my 31" maximum
>
>Hmmmm, stiffer/taller springs would easily shift the suspension downward
>another 3", can't see that being much of a problem clearing the boxes.
>Need a computer drawing/model to mess with and check fits.
>
>
>
> >size is correct, then I would have strange gearing: my top speed on the
> >highway will be 65mph or something? Yuk. I'd rather not drive on the
> >highway above 3900 rpm because I noticed that the oil temp goes up a lot by
> >the time you hit 4000.
>
>Yup, I like 3200, needle at 12 o'clock seems correct to me. At higher RPMs
>the oil in sump is likely being flailed about by the crank, hence the extra
>heating (and some power loss)
>
> >I don't mind cutting and welding the rear trailing arms as per the recent
> >email on the syncro list. The implication is that that is all SDP does
>anyway.
>
>
>Gotta watch this. OK to do but you have to re-heat treat to restore
>strength. Essentially a controlled cooling down period so the metal
>regains it's proper strength. Typically cut/MIG weld, then take oxy-acet
>torch and heat entire region to dull red. this lets any local highly
>stressed areas 'relax' and get rid of the warpage stresses due to the
>initial welding. Then the cool down to make sure the alloy strength gets
>back to the factory design strength.
>
>
>bye, Tim
_______________________________________________
Derek Drew New York, NY
CEO & Co-Founder
www.ConsumerSearch.com
80 South Street, 2nd Floor
New York, NY 10038
drew@interport.net
212-580-6486
Alternate numbers for the industrious phone caller that wants to try every
avenue: 917-848-6425 (cell); 202-966-7907 (Work), 212-580-4459 (Home),
202-966-0938 (Home).