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Date:         Tue, 15 Feb 2000 23:20:37 -0500
Reply-To:     "Karl M." <thewestyman@MINDSPRING.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         "Karl M." <thewestyman@MINDSPRING.COM>
Subject:      Re: [Syncro] Welding up 16" rear trailing arms
Comments: To: Syncro@onelist.com, Derek Drew <drew@interport.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

I would be up to the task, having 20 plus years experience in all sorts of fabrication and welding. Also have a TIG welder that would be oh-so-nice to use on these. Actually, before this recent discussion came about, I had eventual plans to make a set up for my own Syncro. I would not use a sawzall though, way too crude for this. I have access to an industrial water-cooled bandsaw that would be a better choice.

Karl Mullendore Westy Ventures 1987 Westfalia Syncro TD 'Otto' 1988 Audi 80 Quattro

----- Original Message ----- From: Derek Drew <drew@interport.net> To: <Syncro@onelist.com>; <VANAGON@GERRY.VANAGON.COM> Sent: Tuesday, February 15, 2000 2:50 PM Subject: [Syncro] Welding up 16" rear trailing arms

> From: Derek Drew <drew@interport.net> > > Ok everybody. Our knowledge of the issue of special rear trailing arms has > progressed to the point that I think we now know what needs to be done to > get these things. > > Option A: Buy new trailing arms from a German VW dealer for about $2,600. > (including shipping) > > Option B: Have someone on the list who is credible and known to us go into > the 16" trailing arms business. > > It turns out that all SDP does to make these is to cut the factory trailing > arms (think Sawzall) and then welding in a box shaped piece of metal to > extend their length. > > We need somebody on the list to become an expert in the fabrication of > these (think: super safe overkill engineering/welding). > > The operation should be exceedingly simple: > > 1. Cut rear trailing arm with sawzall > > 2. Install two halfs into a jig that keeps the alignment exactly the same > as before, but so there is a 2.5" (?) space between the cut halves. > > 3. Slide a huge piece of square heavy metal into the spaces in both halves > and then weld this in place. > > Who would like to become the first USA manufacturer of these? > > It would seem that the job itself is exceedingly simple, and would cost, > say, 1/20th as much as the dealer option. > > >X-Sender: smitht@pop.unb.ca > >X-Mailer: QUALCOMM Windows Eudora Light Version 3.0.5 (32) > >Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 15:40:37 -0400 > >To: Derek Drew <drew@interport.net> > >From: Tim Smith <smitht@unb.ca> > >Subject: Re: [Syncro] tires/gears/speeds/RPM spreadsheet > > > > >If this is true, then possibly I boobed things by getting the 6.17 gears > > >instead of 5.xxs. > > > >never!! can't go too low. Try changing the 4th gear ratio to Weddles 0.70 > >version, for the 31" tires. I'm curious too! > > > > >hitting the battery box and I am not sure I want to find alternate > > >locations for the batteries. If your math is correct, and my 31" maximum > > > >Hmmmm, stiffer/taller springs would easily shift the suspension downward > >another 3", can't see that being much of a problem clearing the boxes. > >Need a computer drawing/model to mess with and check fits. > > > > > > > > >size is correct, then I would have strange gearing: my top speed on the > > >highway will be 65mph or something? Yuk. I'd rather not drive on the > > >highway above 3900 rpm because I noticed that the oil temp goes up a lot by > > >the time you hit 4000. > > > >Yup, I like 3200, needle at 12 o'clock seems correct to me. At higher RPMs > >the oil in sump is likely being flailed about by the crank, hence the extra > >heating (and some power loss) > > > > >I don't mind cutting and welding the rear trailing arms as per the recent > > >email on the syncro list. The implication is that that is all SDP does > >anyway. > > > > > >Gotta watch this. OK to do but you have to re-heat treat to restore > >strength. Essentially a controlled cooling down period so the metal > >regains it's proper strength. Typically cut/MIG weld, then take oxy-acet > >torch and heat entire region to dull red. this lets any local highly > >stressed areas 'relax' and get rid of the warpage stresses due to the > >initial welding. Then the cool down to make sure the alloy strength gets > >back to the factory design strength. > > > > > >bye, Tim > > _______________________________________________ > Derek Drew New York, NY > CEO & Co-Founder > www.ConsumerSearch.com > 80 South Street, 2nd Floor > New York, NY 10038 > drew@interport.net > 212-580-6486 > > Alternate numbers for the industrious phone caller that wants to try every > avenue: 917-848-6425 (cell); 202-966-7907 (Work), 212-580-4459 (Home), > 202-966-0938 (Home). > > > > --------------------------- ONElist Sponsor ---------------------------- > > FREE ADVICE FROM REAL PEOPLE! Xpertsite has thousands of experts who > are willing to answer your questions for FREE. Go to Xpertsite today > and put your mind to rest. > <a href=" http://clickme.onelist.com/ad/XpersiteCPC ">Click Here</a> > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > If you would like to unsubscribe, visit > Syncro-unsubscribe@onelist.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >


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