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Date:         Mon, 28 Feb 2000 09:27:48 -0800
Reply-To:     Stuart MacMillan <stuart@COBALTGROUP.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Stuart MacMillan <stuart@COBALTGROUP.COM>
Organization: The Cobalt Group
Subject:      Re: CRACKED BLOCK on 2.1
Comments: To: Max/Joyce Wellhouse <maxjoyce@IPA.NET>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Absolutely, welding is the best way to go. But to do it right the case half will have to be taken to someone who specializes in cast aluminum alloy welding. Generally the entire item has to be thoroughly cleaned, heated in an oven, welded while hot, then heated and cooled slowly to relieve stresses in the casting set up by the heat of welding. Then the lip will need a bit of dressing to make a smooth mating surface.

Anything less could lead to more cracking. If you are going to do this, you might as well do a full rebuild while you are at it. Big bucks.

An alternative way to patch this would be to drill a hole in the middle of the crack and cut a piece of sheet metal and bend it to fit the inside contour behind the crack to cover it. Drill a hole in it to match the one in the crack, and use the sealant of your choice, probably silicone RTV sealant similar to the VW sealant. Bolt the sheet metal piece tightly to the crack, clean up the sealant ooze on the inside, and hope for the best. At least this won't come off in the coolant passage!

Max/Joyce Wellhouse wrote: > > I would tend to agree with Jim, an epoxy likely won't tolerate any expansion > regardless of whether using fiberglass as the reinforcing fiber, or a > synthetic like kevlar or nylon or dynel or whatever. A urethane based > resin might stretch a little, but not sure the material would. Another vote > for weld. > > Dimwitted Moose and Flying Squirrel > -----Original Message----- > From: Jim <jrasite@EONI.COM> > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM> > Date: Sunday, February 27, 2000 4:29 PM > Subject: Re: CRACKED BLOCK on 2.1 > > >Shouldn't be too big of job to have it welded up. Just need to find a > really > >good weldor. (person, not machine.) I'd be inclined to look into that > before > >I tried the adhesive route. The problem with the glue/filler idea is the > >thermal expansion of the block through a few heating and cooling cycles > would > >more than likely pop it right back off. > > > >Of course, YMMV. > > > >Jim

-- Stuart MacMillan Manager, Case Program 800-909-8244 ext. 8208

Getting your share of the Net yet? http://cobaltgroup.com http://UsedEquipNet.com


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