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Date:         Mon, 6 Mar 2000 15:07:23 -0800
Reply-To:     Stuart MacMillan <stuart@COBALTGROUP.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Stuart MacMillan <stuart@COBALTGROUP.COM>
Organization: The Cobalt Group
Subject:      Re: Fwd: surface rust--anybody heard of this stuff?
Comments: To: RAlanen@AOL.COM
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

I second what Frank says about POR-15. I also have used it on my MGB floor boards and gas tank tops (very rust prone) and it does not stick well. MGBs are particularly rust prone in the rocker/sill area, but here I use a British product called Waxoyl, a paraffin based spray on rustproofer with rust inhibitors. I have redone portions of the floorboards twice, and there are chips on the gas tank I treated about a year ago and haven't installed yet.

Now I am using Corroless from Eastwood for surfaces that can be painted. It goes on easy (available in a spray can too) and is easier to clean up, but it really stinks, and for about a week. Heavy turpentine/paint smell. It is UV stable, but comes only in red lead color. No long term tests yet, but I tried chipping it with a putty knife and it seems to stick pretty well. Time will tell.

http://eastwoodco.com

RAlanen@AOL.COM wrote: > > POR-15, yeseree. I certainly have heard of it. It works and it doesn't. > I know, funny thing to say. But, that's about it. I've used it in British > car restoration projects. It's expensive and sometimes it does not stick to > the metal. You must follow the instructions for prepping the metal surface > before applying the POR-15. POR-15 is ultraviolet light sensitive so must be > protected by another top coat of paint to keep it from deterioration in the > sunlight. On frame parts which are under the car and not exposed to sunlight > then it's OK without the topcoat. It is also a PITA to work with. If you > get in on your skin YOU WILL NOT GET IT OFF until it wears off period ! WEAR > RUBBER GLOVES !!!! Any implement you use to apply the POR-15 with will be > useless afterwards unless you clean them up with a high quality lacquer > thinner within 30 minuets of use and then even there is residue left behind. > In some cases it flaked off the properly prepared metal surfaces after > sitting for a month or so. I was never able to determine the cause of this. > In other instances it has held up just fine and it certainly stopped the > rusting that was present. So there ya go ! I have since given up using it > as I feel it is a big PITA and the results may or may not be good. After > having to redo a frame on an MGTA twice, that was enough ! > > Cheers > > Frank Condelli > '87 Westy & Lionel Trains > Almonte, On > Visit me on the web.......> <A > HREF="http://members.aol.com/Fkc43/busindex.html">Frank Condelli & Associates< > /A> > Want to win $10,000? Click to enter!! > <A HREF="http://irecommend-it.com/sh.e?22EC343C3B75">iRecommend-It Public > Page for RAlanen@aol.com</A>

-- Stuart MacMillan Manager, Case Program 800-909-8244 ext. 8208

Getting your share of the Net yet? http://cobaltgroup.com http://UsedEquipNet.com


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