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Date:         Wed, 15 Mar 2000 04:59:14 -0800
Reply-To:     steve delasalle <sdelasal@YAHOO.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         steve delasalle <sdelasal@YAHOO.COM>
Subject:      Re: Cooling System Pressure
Comments: To: JKrevnov@AOL.COM
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

errrr..this conflicts with the advice given on sure Tests for the Cooling System TEST #2 DO'S & DON'TS FOR head REMOVAL WORDS TO THE WISE PARTS NEEDED TO REASSEMBLE PARTS # list PARTS: HARDWARE TIME TO REASSEMBLE PUSH RODS BLEEDING THE COOliNG SYSTEM THE LAST DETAILS TOOLS NEEDED FOR head REPLACEMENT FINAL NOTES

So you're thinking its time to replace the heads on your water boxer, and you're asking yourself if you can do a job like this. Can this be done on the ground without a lift? I will try to help you answer these questions. First, lets go over the most common reasons to remove the cylinder heads. Make sure to be clear about what's leaking before you begin the job. It can be oil or coolant that's dripping from the heads.

Washing the engine is very

helpful when looking for leaks.

If the push rod tubes are

leaking or if a lifter has

collapsed, you can use an

expanding push rod tube,

which is available at the dealer

for $50 each, or in the

aftermarket for about half of

that.

The most common coolant

leak is from a cracking or

splitting rubber outer coolant

gasket at the head.

Often this will be accompanied

by a corrosive reaction where

the rubber gasket contacts the

head. Unfortunately, there is

no easy way out of this repair.

The heads must be removed to

replace these gaskets, and at

this time a close inspection of

the heads will indicate the

extent of corrosion. A

corroded head will not make

the best possible seal with the

gasket.

Another reason the heads may

need to be removed is

pressure build up in the cooling

system.

This is do to the head gasket at the top of the cylinder leaking compression when the engine is cold.

TEST #1: Pressure Tests for the Cooling System

The first test of the cooling system is done when the engine is cold. A cooling system pressure tester can be installed in place of the radiator cap. Pressure in the cooling system and hot coolant are not something to be treated lightly. Use caution, and never

remove the radiator cap from

a engine that has been run

even for even a short time.

After installing the gauge,

pump it up to 10 pounds.

Look around for leaks if the

gauge shows any pressure

loss.

Common trouble spots

include heads, hoses, water

pump and rear heater core. If

you smell something sweet

when you turn the heater fans

on, it may be a coolant leak

at one of the heater cores, or

simply the O-ring at the rear

heater

valve leaking. Because there is

often more then one leak in

the system, it is necessary to

continue pressure testing until

the system holds pressure.

TEST #2

Start the engine cold with no

pressure indicated on the

gauge. The pressure in the

cooling system builds to aprox

7 lbs at normal running temps

looking around for leaks. But

if the pressure builds quickly

to around 15 lbs the pressure

is coming from one of the

cylinders

from 'boston engines' ...???

Steve

--- Rico Sapolich <JKrevnov@AOL.COM> wrote: > In a message dated 3/14/00 11:52:23 PM, > sdelasal@YAHOO.COM writes: > > << I've asked for a cooling system pressure check on > a water cooled van that > I'm considering to see if there's > > any evidence of leaking cylinder heads - is this a > good idea?, What is a > reasonable pressure to expect? > > any better ideas? >> > > Steve: > Damn good idea! It can expose a myriad of sins. 15 > psi is called for. I > would check it cold AND after it has reached > operating temperature. I have > seen hydronic systems test out good cold then, once > up to operating > temperature, it is time to get out the umbrellas. > Although, Vanagons > sometimes seem to show their weaknesses more after > they cool down. > Rich >

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