Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000 04:59:14 -0800
Reply-To: steve delasalle <sdelasal@YAHOO.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: steve delasalle <sdelasal@YAHOO.COM>
Subject: Re: Cooling System Pressure
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
errrr..this conflicts with the advice given on sure
Tests for the Cooling System
TEST #2
DO'S & DON'TS FOR
head REMOVAL
WORDS TO THE WISE
PARTS NEEDED TO
REASSEMBLE
PARTS # list
PARTS: HARDWARE
TIME TO REASSEMBLE
PUSH RODS
BLEEDING THE COOliNG
SYSTEM
THE LAST DETAILS
TOOLS NEEDED FOR
head REPLACEMENT
FINAL NOTES
So you're thinking its
time
to replace the heads on
your
water boxer, and you're
asking yourself if you
can
do a job like this. Can
this
be done on the ground
without a lift? I will
try to
help you answer these
questions. First, lets
go over
the most common reasons
to
remove the cylinder
heads.
Make sure to be clear
about
what's leaking before you
begin the job. It can be
oil or
coolant that's dripping
from
the heads.
Washing the engine is very
helpful when looking for leaks.
If the push rod tubes are
leaking or if a lifter has
collapsed, you can use an
expanding push rod tube,
which is available at the dealer
for $50 each, or in the
aftermarket for about half of
that.
The most common coolant
leak is from a cracking or
splitting rubber outer coolant
gasket at the head.
Often this will be accompanied
by a corrosive reaction where
the rubber gasket contacts the
head. Unfortunately, there is
no easy way out of this repair.
The heads must be removed to
replace these gaskets, and at
this time a close inspection of
the heads will indicate the
extent of corrosion. A
corroded head will not make
the best possible seal with the
gasket.
Another reason the heads may
need to be removed is
pressure build up in the
cooling
system.
This is do to the head
gasket at
the top of the cylinder
leaking
compression when the
engine
is cold.
TEST #1: Pressure Tests
for the Cooling System
The first test of the
cooling
system is done when the
engine
is cold. A cooling
system
pressure tester can be
installed
in place of the radiator
cap.
Pressure in the cooling
system
and hot coolant are not
something to be treated
lightly.
Use caution, and never
remove the radiator cap from
a engine that has been run
even for even a short time.
After installing the gauge,
pump it up to 10 pounds.
Look around for leaks if the
gauge shows any pressure
loss.
Common trouble spots
include heads, hoses, water
pump and rear heater core. If
you smell something sweet
when you turn the heater fans
on, it may be a coolant leak
at one of the heater cores, or
simply the O-ring at the rear
heater
valve leaking. Because there
is
often more then one leak in
the system, it is necessary to
continue pressure testing
until
the system holds pressure.
TEST #2
Start the engine cold with
no
pressure indicated on the
gauge. The pressure in the
cooling system builds to aprox
7 lbs at normal running temps
looking around for leaks. But
if the pressure builds quickly
to around 15 lbs the pressure
is coming from one of the
cylinders
from 'boston engines' ...???
Steve
--- Rico Sapolich <JKrevnov@AOL.COM> wrote:
> In a message dated 3/14/00 11:52:23 PM,
> sdelasal@YAHOO.COM writes:
>
> << I've asked for a cooling system pressure check on
> a water cooled van that
> I'm considering to see if there's
>
> any evidence of leaking cylinder heads - is this a
> good idea?, What is a
> reasonable pressure to expect?
>
> any better ideas? >>
>
> Steve:
> Damn good idea! It can expose a myriad of sins. 15
> psi is called for. I
> would check it cold AND after it has reached
> operating temperature. I have
> seen hydronic systems test out good cold then, once
> up to operating
> temperature, it is time to get out the umbrellas.
> Although, Vanagons
> sometimes seem to show their weaknesses more after
> they cool down.
> Rich
>
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