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Date:         Wed, 15 Mar 2000 15:10:50 -0800
Reply-To:     BRENT CHRISTENSEN <bchristensen@INFOGENESIS.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         BRENT CHRISTENSEN <bchristensen@INFOGENESIS.COM>
Subject:      How to replace the brake master cylinder. - long -
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;

Joel Cort sent this to me, and I felt it would be great to share with the rest of the list (with Joel's permission)

-----Original Message----- From: Cort, Joel [mailto:Joel.Cort@usa.xerox.com] Sent: Tuesday, March 14, 2000 7:00 AM To: 'BRENTCHRISTENSEN<bchristensen@infogenesis.com>' Subject: How to replace the brake master cylinder. - long -

To replace the brake master cylinder in a Vanagon:

Tools needed: Phillips #2 and several flat screwdrivers 7mm wrench to loosen and tighten the brake bleeder 12 mm socket/ratchet with 9" extension (Torque wrench optional) 11 mm open end wrench for the brake line 22 mm and 24mm wrench or socket to remove or replace the brake light switches (or one big cresent wrench) Supplies needed: 2 pints of DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid Rags 2 pints of rubbing alcohol Silicone spray lubricant (optional)

Step 1. Remove Instrument Panel: I pulled off the cover over the instrument cluster. Then the 4 Philips head screws. Next reach behind the Speedo cluster and squeeze the plastic retainer holding the cable in and release that. This gives you more play in the instrument panel to unplug the main cable cluster. To be safe you should disconnect the battery when playing with the wiring. I then pull all switches/plugs and wiring - fairly straight forward and easy. With all that stuff out of the way the MC is sitting there with the plastic filler tank taking up most of the space. I also disconnected the low fluid sensor wire on the MC filler cap.

Step 2. Check for similarities with the new one: Ok double check that the two MCs were real close in appearance. The new one must have all the plugs and ports in the same location to route the brake lines and the filler tank.

Step 3. Drain the filler tank of all the brake fluid: First you have to drain as much the brake fluid out as you can out of the plastic container and MC. I put a hose and bottle on the bleeder on the left front caliper and open the bleeder while pumping the brakes. This worked well and drained all the fluid out.

Step 4. Remove the Clutch MC filler tank hose: On the upper right side of the tank there is a pipe leading to a fitted 3/8" braided rubber hose going to the clutch master cylinder that needs to be worked off. Put a rag under to collect any fluid here. I used a pair of pliers to gently start twisting the hose and sprayed some silicone spray lubricant. I then used several screwdrivers to pry it off and finally my twisting motion to work it off. Be careful doing this because if it breaks the plastic pipe you will need a new tank. Once I had the rubber hose removed I plugged it up to prevent any brake fluid from leaking out while I was working in there.

Step 5. Remove the brake lines: Have a rag under both of the brake line to catch that little drip. If you pumped the fluid out there should be minimal amounts easily captured on a rag. Loosen the two metallic brake lines going to the front and rear brake circuits. One brake line is on the center right side blocking the anchoring nut so you must remove the brake line. I believe the brake line nuts are 11mm. The other brake line is on the end of the MC and sticking out at you. The real pain was holding a shop light in there there's no good hook.

Step 6. Loosen and remove the brake master cylinder: Ok two brake lines off, rubber hose off, all you have left is the two MC anchor nuts. I believe they are 12mm. They are not supper tight and loosen out easily. I used a magnet wand to capture the loose nut and washers. The MC is now ready to be removed. Jimmy the MC to disconnect the brake light wiring from the two switches on the bottom and VOILA!

Step 7. Prepping the new MC for installation: Switches OK now you have the old one out and you can compare it to the new one. My new MC came with the two new brake light switches but I ended up using my old switches - 22mm wrench on my old ones 24mm on the new ones. The new MC switches had 3 male plugs and my old ones had 2 male at a slightly different offset. So rather than dicker with the wiring plug I changed the switches. Be careful to put the switches in the correct threaded hole on the MC.

Filler tank The plastic brake fluid tank comes out of the MC easily by prying it out of each rubber grommets. Mine was full of 108K miles of brake line crud so I cleaned it out. Regular rubbing alcohol works really well to break down brake fluid. I swished alcohol around in the baffles of the filler tank several times and it is as good as new. The new MC came with new grommets so I just applied some silicone to ease it in. It snapped right on the MC. OK double check everything making sure there is a new seal between the MC and the brake booster (which came in the box with the MC).

Step 8. New MC installation: Angle the new MC with the tank assembled and place it on the pushrod coming out of the booster. You can press on the brake pedal to see the rod to get a better angle at it. Ensure that the pushrod inserts into the MC shaft. I used the same lock-ring washers and nut although two new ones were also supplied. I used a magnetic wand to place the washers and nuts on the threads in the tight area. Torque it down to the right Nm from Bentley. Refit the brake line circuits ensure that the threads are aligned and tighten down. Refit the braided rubber hose for the Clutch MC. Fill with new brake fluid (I used DOT 4) and pump the brakes a few times to get the juices flowing Bleed the brakes until clean clear fluid comes out and all the air is removed. - you know this routine.

Step 9. Cleanup: You are done. So you see this is one of the easier jobs. I did not spill one bit of fluid. If you do spill any fluid use some alcohol to clean it up and mop it up. Alcohol will work on the carpeting also to dissolves the dripped brake fluid.

Good Luck - Hope this helps Joel

Thanks,

Joel B. Cort

Xerox TSI Corporate Information Security 161 Chestnut Street Building 875 - 2A Rochester, NY 14604 * (716) 423-3851 8*223-3851


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