Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 08:39:56 -0800
Reply-To: BRENT CHRISTENSEN <bchristensen@INFOGENESIS.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: BRENT CHRISTENSEN <bchristensen@INFOGENESIS.COM>
Subject: Re: Syncro upgrade?
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Well, I assume you know all the things to look for in a Vanagon with 140k
miles on it, so I won't go into all that. As far as the Syncro stuff is
concerned, I would look closely at the following:
1. Transmission. Any rebuilds? If not, it may be due soon (about $2,500
for quality work AFAIK)
2. The VC - First, make sure the drive shaft is there. (If the VC is
toasted, many people remove the drive shaft) Then check the operation of the
VC. This is a tricky thing to check, but you should be able to jack up the
entire rear end with a floor jack, start the engine, and using the clutch
and brake, get the rears turning at about 10-20 rpms before the fronts want
to pull the car forward. If you let the clutch all the way out at idle, it
will pull forward so you have to kind of feather the clutch and tap the
brakes. There is also another method using a torque wrench that Steve
Schwenk just posted recently. (I don't have the details with me).
3. Check all the CV joints for the usual wear - there's twice as many of
them to wear out!
4. Drive at highway speeds and be very mindful of any vibrations that come
and go with speed. The usual report is that they hit at around 50 mph.
These are often caused by improperly balanced drive shafts (happens when
shops replace the U-joints and not the entire shaft). The PO of my Syncro
replaced the u-joints 4 times before giving up and replacing the entire
shaft with a new VW unit.
5. Check to make sure all the tires are the same size, brand, and have the
same amount of wear on them (within 2.5 mm).
6. Check the operation of the diff lock. This can be tricky, but you should
be able to check it by jacking the rear up into the air and engaging it
while the engine is running and in neutral (engine is required since it uses
vacuum to engage). Have someone pull the knob and listen for the actuation
of the solenoid. (ANYONE ELSE HAVE IDEAS ON CHECKING THE DIFF LOCK??)
That's about all I can think of off the top of my head...
Good luck and let us know how it goes!
Brent Christensen
'89 GL Syncro Westy
Santa Barbara, CA
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM]On Behalf
> Of Chris Hazen
> Sent: Monday, March 27, 2000 2:38 PM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Syncro upgrade?
>
>
> Sorry for repeat - new to list and did not find info in
> archive relative to question.
>
> I currently own a '87 GL Westy (156K, rebuilt eng. 25K ago,
> very clean) and am contemplating upgrading (?) to a '87
> Syncro Westy - original owner (an acquaintance), 140K, 5 sp
> (were they all?), Locking diffs', clean interior etc....
>
> 1. I do most of the work on my '87, how different am I going
> to find the Syncro?
> 2. What do I need to pay attention to when scoping the
> vehicle out and negotiating a price?
> 3. Realizing market values - what is a fair price range for
> the vehicle - and a fair sales price for my vehicle?
>
> I live in the mountain interior of Colorado, and have "made
> due" with the rear wheel drive, but would obviously benefit
> from the Syncro option.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Chris
> Telluride, CO
> '87 Westy
> '73 Commando
>
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