Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2000 09:30:57 -0800
Reply-To: bpchristensen1@HOME.COM
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Brent Christensen <bpchristensen1@HOME.COM>
Subject: Thigs to do when the fridge it out (long)
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Richard:
Take heart - I have had my fridge in and out several times, and it is EASY!
And it gives you the wonderful opportunity to clean out the 10+ years of
accumulated gunk underneath there. It is also a great time to run a wiring
harness from the front of the vehicle to the rear area, since you will have
great access to the area behind the cabinets. Even if you have no plans for
an auxiliary battery or accessories now, I would go ahead and lay the
groundwork, since it will be so easy. Here's what I did:
From the auxiliary battery bin under the driver's seat to the "secret
compartment" behind the 110v outlet, run a bundle of wires. I used a
pre-made bundle that included nice 12 awg wires wrapped in a black PVC
jacket. I think it was originally designed for wiring auxiliary 100w
driving lights, and contained two pairs of red and black wires. I mounted
everything very cleanly using zip ties and little straps and grommets. I
have the aux. battery, and eventually, I plan to set up a power inverter and
additional fuse block inside the "secret compartment". (Thanks to Steven
Sittser for the inspiration for this). This fuse block will become a
distribution point for some additional interior lights in the cabin and rear
deck areas, as well as a 12v socket flush-mounted in the panel with the 110v
outlet (from West Marine).
NOTE ON REMOVING THE FRIDGE:
The reason I believe mine goes in and out so easily is that I have always
been VERY CAREFUL not to bend or tweak the exhaust or intake tubes. This
way, they line up perfectly each time. As I understand it, this is the
biggest potential PITA for installing the fridge - when the pipes won't line
up with the exterior openings.
THINGS TO CONSIDER DOING TO THE FRIDGE:
1. Clean out all the passages and the orifice (with alcohol only, NOT a
pin!)
2. Pull apart the combustion chamber and clean that out.
3. Install a secondary fan to the back side of the fridge, or replace the
existing (noisy) fan.
4. Install a small fan to the interior of the fridge (I used a CPU fan) to
move air off the evaporator coils and circulate air.
5. Burp the fridge. (turn upside down for 24 hours, then back up for 24
hours)
I run both my extra fans manually using switches that I mounted to the front
of the fridge (only visible when you open the door - looks very clean). I
played around with running the secondary rear fan off the same thermistor as
the primary fan, but I liked the idea of being able to kick it on during the
day, then turn it off at night while trying to sleep. (I guess the best
solution would have been a manual override switch in addition to wiring it
to the thermistor).
Let me know if you have any questions. (Unfortunately I have no pictures)
Brent Christensen
'89 GL Syncro Westy
Santa Barbara, CA
----- Original Message -----
From: Richard Golen <rgolen@UMASSD.EDU>
To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Sent: Friday, March 31, 2000 11:00 AM
Subject: THANKS - was:Troubleshooting Gas Fridge
> Hi All,
>
>
> I'd like to thank all of you who responded to my querry about getting the
> gas fridge to work. I now have a bunch of ideas to work on....although, to
> be honest, I'm not looking forward to have to pull the fridge out, but if
I
> must...I must...
>
> You may have noticed a "tounge-in-cheek" remark someone made regarding
> certain threads on the list and how the threads will change in the spring
> to things like getting the fridge to work...well like the first robin, my
> original post seems to be one of those harbingers of spring! :-)
>
>
> Again thanks, and I'll let the list know if I'm successful in getting the
> fridge to work....if you hear a large BOOOM!!! you'll know I wasn't
> successful! ;-)
>
>
> Ric
