Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2000 10:30:19 +1200
Reply-To: Andrew Grebneff <andrew.grebneff@STONEBOW.OTAGO.AC.NZ>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <firstname.lastname@example.org>
From: Andrew Grebneff <andrew.grebneff@STONEBOW.OTAGO.AC.NZ>
Subject: Vanarusche? Vanschru? Subagonsche?
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My job probably expires in September, and by hokey I hope the SVX/Porsche
conversion's done by then!
So far I have an SVX engine sans electrics, a 915 trans that needs checking
(bought sight-unseen privately in USA; hope it has internals and they're
OK) and a trans-free Caravelle. My engine is of unknown kilometers; the new
arrival is 78000km, which isn't high (about 49000mi).
I've been trying to decide what to do ignitionwise. I can have the guy who
will do the swap fit a Link computer, which he sells and for which he has
the SVX program, for about $1200NZ ($1US=$2NZ). OR I can sell this engine
for the purchase price to another fellow who wanted it and then buy an
engine complete with electrics for the same price - just appeared exJapan
at a wrecker's in Wellington. This would leave me the option of using the
SVX electrics if Hobert Kennedy gets his SVX conversion electrics sorted
out by then.
Problem is, the US-market SVX electrics may not be the same as the
Japanese. The fellow I bought the engine from is a Subaru rallyer, and says
he played around with an SVX wreck. They ran the engine and then started
snipping wires. Finally the engine stopped when a certain unspecified wire
was cut, and this caused the computer to wipe its memory clean. So he
swears that it's not possible to use the SVX computer outside an SVX car. I
have trouble believing this! They may, I suspect, have shorted something
and BLOWN the computer. Maybe that wire was the memory-dump wire? The Link
dealer reckons the SVX setup should be workable.
I've begun to think anyway that the Link is the way to go. Though it'll
cost somewhere between $800-1200NZ to fit, it will allow me to ditch all
the antismog gear (including the restrictive air mass-sensor) and hopefully
also allow me to return to a flat engine-lid. Give a bit more power too,
260hp instead of the factory (Japanese) 250. Also for an extra $280 I can
have a remote programmer so I can change the power and torque
characteristics on the move.
I think that the biggest problem will be fitting the Porsche trans,
especially if I cannot get Ruf or Clear to answer my request for
information (anyone know an e-mail address for these two Porsche-modifying
outfits in Germany?)
And THEN I have to fit electric windows and remote locks, electric Toyota
Hilix mirrors and stereo. And if I get the conversion done and the job
lasts a bit longer I have to think about getting an instrument cluster with
tacho and digital clock, RSA upper & lower grills, 16" alloy wheels &
tires...I'd also like aircon and power steering. I have a rally seat out of
my Bay, which I must get fitted. Rally seat in a van, I hear you say? Sure
thing! Ever noticed how, on cornering, you're hanging onto the wheel and
bracing your knee (right one in my case) against the door to keep from
falling over? Know how many people lose control on corners because they
lose the ability to regulate the wheel? And push their feet down, one of
which happens to be on the go-pedal...with a rally seat the side bolsters
do all this for you, and your driving is just SOOO much better.