Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2000 09:30:34 -0400
Reply-To: Marc Theune <mtheune@EMORY.EDU>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Marc Theune <mtheune@EMORY.EDU>
Subject: Re: 1986 GL won't start
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Chris, I tried to send this to you pmail, but I got this error in a
bounceback:
Diagnostic-Code: SMTP; 550 <chstinson@earthlink.net>... Mailbox size
exceeds quota
Anyway, here's the rest:
Check out Ken Wilford's how-to page on this at
http://www.vanagain.com/how2ign.htm.
The rest of his how-to topics are at http://199.217.188.30/disc2_frm.htm.
I can't vouch for the accuracy since I have not yet had to do this.
There is also a thread on the archives from August 1996 that includes
this
post:
_____________
Hey Fred
My Bentley dated 1989 basicly states the same thing. I had to
replace
my switch after it melted. The clamping bolt is the bolt that holds the
steering lock housing in place. I had to remove the key cylinder from my
steering lock to get the switch out. You have to drill a 3mm hole into
the
lock housing. There is a pin inside the housing you have to depress to
free
the lock cylinder. The dimensions for this hole are in repair group 94.4
in
my bently. I will try to give you directions.
1: Lay the steering lock housing on a table, with the key lock
pointing
away from you and on the left side of the steering lock housing.
2: Measure from the top edge of the casting, just below the
cylinder
lock. You should see the VW symbol and the part number just below this
edge. Mark a line parallel to the edge of the casting, and 12mm down
from
the edge.
3: Find the crease that runs at a right angle to the top edge of
the
cylinder casting. This should be just above the VW symbol. Measure to
the
right of the crease, along the top edge of the casting 10mm and mark a
line
perpendicular to the top end of the casting.
4: Where these two lines cross is where you need to drill the 3mm
hole. becareful not to drill into the locking cylinder.
5: Use a pin punch to push the small pin on the inside of the
housing
in, and pull the locking cylinder out.
I used a dremel tool with a flexable shaft to drill the hole. I was
off a little bit with my hole but was still able to push the pin in. I
lhope this helps you out. It's kind of hard giving directions to measure
something that may or may not look the same on my van as it does yours.
Good Luck :-)
Colin A Moran
_____________
Hope that helps and good luck!
Marc
Chris Stinson wrote:
> Many thanks for the on- and off-list suggestions: ignition switch,
> Hall sender, and loose things in the fuse box area. It doesn't seem
> to be the Hall sender (i.e., it's intact, seems well fastened, seems
> to pass the multimeter test). I'll look for loose things in the fuse
> box area; I'll even try to find places to attach the ones I find...
>
> I once tried to take out and replace an ignition switch. After
> breaking the existing switch while trying to take it out (and I think
> I broke something it attached to), I wasn't really satisfied with my
> subsequent installation of the new switch. I've tried a "search
> ignition switch in vanagon" in the archives, but I don't get anything
> that says "here's the idiot's step-by-step HOW to take out the
> ignition switch and to put a new one back in". Any guidance?
> (please??)
>
> Thank you all again!
>
> Chris