Date:         Mon, 24 Apr 2000 15:22:13 -0700
Reply-To:     Stuart MacMillan <stuart@COBALTGROUP.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Stuart MacMillan <stuart@COBALTGROUP.COM>
Organization: The Cobalt Group
Subject:      Re: Bottom end reassembly?
Comments: To: Sean Garrett <seangar@HOTMAIL.COM>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Bulley's advice is good, as usual.  You can't be too clean when
assembling an engine.

Two things I also do:  I always check the machine shop work with
Plastigauge.  This stuff is cheap, and most good FLAPS have it.  It is
just a plastic thread that you place on the crank journals (everything
dry, split main bearings only obviously), torque to specs, then take
everything apart and check the flattened Plastigauge against the chart
supplied for the proper clearance.  You can do this with the rods too,
but it takes more finesse to keep them from moving when you tighten them
down, which ruins the test.  Having the engine on a stand makes this
much easier, and you can get a bench top mounted stand for less than $40
from most VW suppliers.  They fit all aircooled VW engines and the WBX.

I also use a special cam lube on the cam lobes and lifters.  Lately I
have been using Red Line synthetic assembly lube, but there are other
good ones to choose from.  You can use a little of this on the bearings
too, or just oil the hell out of them with motor oil during assembly.

Cams and lifters need to be run in for 20 minutes at 2000 RPM, so when
you start that puppy make sure it catches right away and don't let it
idle until you have done this!

Then you need to seat the rings, but that is another story.
--
Stuart MacMillan
Manager, Case Program
800-909-8244 ext. 8208
Fax: 206-269-6360

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