Date: Mon, 8 May 2000 00:13:30 -0500
Reply-To: Marshall Ruskin <mruskin@PANGEA.CA>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Marshall Ruskin <mruskin@PANGEA.CA>
Subject: Re: rust between rear panels, 91 gl camper
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Hi Jakob:
I just played that seam rust game - and it's really quite easy to repair
yourself - depending, of course, on the severity of the rust.
If you have rust so bad, that the metal is seriously flaking away - I cannot
recommend anything, because I have no experience with that.
However, if you have light rust, following along the seams and it's not too
bad, you can fix it easily, and you should fix it - everybody should.
Here's what you need from a good auto paint supply store (not a FLAP):
1. A good sharp utility knife,
2. strips of automotive grade 80 grit sandpaper
3. A 2 part epoxy primer ( ask for a high-fill type - fixes imperfections
better)
4. 1/2" Automotive grade masking tape (3M is good);
5. Some natural fibre small paintbrushes, and paint thinner or similar
stuff
6. Cleaner-degreaser liquid;
7. Tube of automotive seam sealer;
8. Calking gun;
9. some soft rags, like old t-shirts
10. About 4-5 hours of your time, maybe less.
Now, to begin:
1. Step one: remove the old seam sealer.
You know how in profile, the seams form a "v" shape? What you want to do is
carefully, follow the contour of the seam with your utility knife, and cut
out the seam sealer. You do one side of the V at a time. The seam sealer is
like a vinyl grout - tough and rubbery, not brittle.
Take your time, move slow, hold the blade TIGHTLY, keep it under control,
and don't go nuts and scratch the paint outside of the seam.
Oh yeah - don't forget to remove your rings and wristwatch. My instructor
kicks you out if he catches said items being worn in his shop (only his
for-credit students, that is - not the Continuing Ed night-school guys, like
me).
Part 2: remove the rust.
First you apply masking tape, just outside of seams - to protect the good
area from sanding scratches. Be precise, don't make the gap any bigger than
you have to.
Fold the sandpaper not in half, but in thirds, so it grips itself; use the
edge of the fold to sand away the rust, right to bare metal. Goes pretty
quick, actually!
You can use the knife to help scrape out the rust, if needed.
Part 3: Apply the primer
Wipe down the seams really well with the cleaner degreaser - this is very
important.
Mix a small amount of the primer in a tin can, follow the directions for the
primer you bought.
Now - you didn't remove the tape, right? - Good!
Using the painbrush, apply the primer on the seam. Don't have so much primer
that it runs - but cover all the bare metal - or you've just wasted your
time.
Leave the tape on - do not remove it!
Let dry - maybe 30 - 45 min or so.
Part 4. Apply the seam sealer.
Have a rag handy, work these directions completely for each area before goin
on to the next.
Apply the seam sealer in a thin bead along the seam.
IMMEDIATELY, wrap a finger in the rag, and wipe along the seam, pressing
sealer into joint, and removing excess.
IMMEDIATELY, remove tape. Wipe off any excess along the tape edge, - you
don't want an edge of seam sealer there - just in the joint. (This step is
not always needed.)
Let dry, and don't touch it till the next day.
You're done.
Hope this helps,
Marshall Ruskin
84 Westy "Iron Igloo"
>hey hey, i have some surface rust between my right rear panels that goes
all
>the way down and follows the panel above the tire. does anyone have any
>advice? i live in florida by the beach and i was considering having a body
>shop cut out the rust and weld new metal- more expensive then i want, but
>its my van ya know? anyone with some expierence or advice would be greatly
>appreciated.
> Thanks
>
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