Date:         Tue, 16 May 2000 12:19:53 -0400
Reply-To:     David Beierl <dbeierl@IBM.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         David Beierl <dbeierl@IBM.NET>
Subject:      Busted stud removal
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 From the Atlas-Craftsman list...

Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] Re:  Corrosion as an insulator  was  1/4"
stud story re...
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I would take that as a question to me. The 'nib' of course is the broken part
of the stud. Simply, you take the small tip, 00 works the best, and tune the
flame way down, but sharp blue in the middle. The actual sound of the flame
as well as the appearance helps me tune it. You then point the tip of the
blue portion of the flame virtually straight down or nearly so right in the
middle of the broken stud. As the part goes yellow then liquid, introduce a
prewarmed (nearly yellow) piece of rod (about .050 will do) and start your
stalagmite puddle, back out the torch until it goes solid then repeat. I
often get perfectly straight even columns this way and good results. Make
sure that first drop melts into the puddle so you have a good base to build
on. Don't let the flame play off to any side, else you will cook the parent
material too much. Half the battle is the expansion in the stud the heat
creates as the other poster so accurately noted. The other half obviously is
the handle the stalagmite creates. This method actually works as well or
better than EDM and particularly if the stud is hardened, where a center
drill would walk off the part. Hope this helps. Another long post :>). Don
McGiffin
David Beierl - Providence, RI
  http://pws.prserv.net/synergy/Vanagon/
'84 Westy "Dutiful Passage"
'85 GL "Poor Relation"