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Date:         Sat, 20 May 2000 08:38:40 EDT
Reply-To:     Wolfvan88@AOL.COM
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Robert Lilley <Wolfvan88@AOL.COM>
Subject:      Re: RECOMMENDATION
Comments: To: hilltech@netins.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"

In a message dated 5/20/00 7:56:55 AM Eastern Daylight Time, hilltech@netins.net writes:

<< Could you give your recommendations on building a waterboxer up from parts, please. I have a 2.1 short block, i.e. no heads, to work with already. In checking out the waterboxer engine parts, it looks to me that a camshaft from a beetle will fit perfectly. This opens up a new source of suppliers for this part. CB performance and Bernie Bergman have "performance" cams with a profile suitable for hydraulic lifters which I want to retain.>>

WebCam can regrind your stock WBX cam to a new profile with increased lift and duration. If you change cam you need to change oil pump to match.

WBX uses a riveted dished cam and matching pump. T1 performance cams usually are the non-dished. The pump must also match the size inlet/outlet of the WBX case.

If you change the FI system you can go to a larger cam profile, if staying with stock do not go too large in the cam, use 1.25 ratio rockers to increase lift higher BUT what you get with the rockers is increased low end torque because the valves are opened quicker.

Get your stock crank counterweighted. This keeps the crank centered. The bearing last longer and the rods do not fail because the crank does not flex as it does with a stock engine.

Have your rods rebuilt-grind some off the end cap and rebore the rods big end to true it up, plus balancing and making sure all are equal length.

Fully balance ALL rotating parts-including hub, flywheel AND pressure plate.

Match port the oil pump, heads, exhaust systems for free horsepower.

Add an K&N filter, less restrictive muffler and synthetic oil for more free HP.

If you counterweight the crank you can lighter the flywheel by about 3 lb.

Use the T1 valve train-solid rocker shafts, Cromoly push rods and retainers, racing valve locks, racing clutch bolts, solid spacer, 1.25 rhino rockers, rhino swivel feet.

All my mods give a nice HP boost, if you want more you can add bigger pistons and there is even a 2.5L engine kit (FAT Performance has it and cost $5000)

<<< Something else I would like to do is use CIS fuel injection to avoid some of the unexplained "weirdness" of the digifant/digijet system. Can you help me with parts suppliers in this area as well? >>

I was at a VW show a few weekends ago and was talking to a guy that had a CIS system on his golf and recommended that I not switch. He said that it was an older system and clogged easily because the metering rods were small.

The cost to switch was over $2500. Cheaper to buy all new parts for the Digifant now since all the "old" new stock is being sold off cheap now from list venders

In trying to track down my faulty FI parts, I have all new FI system now. The system works OK if all parts are working.

I have an address from a shop that sells CIS conversions on my other computer and can get it for you later if you want it.

Robert


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