Date:         Mon, 22 May 2000 13:04:33 EDT
Reply-To:     Wolfvan88@AOL.COM
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Robert Lilley <Wolfvan88@AOL.COM>
Subject:      Re: Beefed up Waterboxer
Comments: To: nims@excite.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"

<<<If a person were to invest in making a 2.1 waterboxer into a more powerful
engine, how would this affect reliability and fuel economy?>>>

What I did to my engine is to make it work better.

I had counterweights added to my stock crankshaft.  The weights balance the center offset main journals weight to keep it running true with no flexing in the center. The flexing wears the center bearing out thus causes low oil pressure at the bearings.  Flexing also causes the 2.1L rod failure after X miles.

When adding the counterweights, the flywheel can be lightened @ 3 lbs. This helps in quicker accelerations with no loss in low-end power.


I had all rotating parts balanced to eliminate any vibrations.  I can hold it at 5000 RPMs and the engine is smooth.

I added coatings to the head-sealing surface to prevent the head corrosion problem. I got messages from others that have done this with success.  I choose ceramic because of the added thermal protection for the engine.

Where there are weak links I used parts that are stronger than the stock parts. Solid rocker shafts the eliminate the stock wire rocker arm retainers (That can break)

I took intake, exhaust and oil pump and eliminated any restrictions to flow, other wise known as match porting.


I have been getting between 20 to 25 mpg.  I am working out bad FI parts and vacuum leaks.  Once I resolve the problems, the mileage will increase and be steadier.


<<<Is it possible to get better performance without risking reliability and turning my transporter into a gas gussler (one of the reasons I chose NOT to buy a
domestic van)?>>

If you do changes that are modest and balanced to the entire engine from when the air enters and the exhaust leaves you can increase the power and mileage without affecting reliability (Unless you drive like you are in a drag race all the time).




<<<I will need to choose from a variety of power options.  A conversion? A rebuild?>>>

When I looked at re-doing my engine or converting, I decided to rebuild mine and fix the minor problems rather than do a conversion.  At the time the conversions were having problems.  I have over 18 years in working on VW T1 and T4 engines.  I have tried many different "bolt-on" power parts.  Some of them worked some of them did not. What I have learned over the years is that the changes need to be balanced and the entire engine needs to be considered when changing from stock. I am not an engineer.  I talked with a number of VW experts when I was considering what I needed to and wanted to change. I took around 3 months of studying and talking with the experts, long distance (at my expense) before I decided on what to do, then it took around 2 months to get the parts off and back and 2 months to put it together.  I spent over 10 hours cleaning the case, to prevent leaks.  It takes some time to get the parts sent off and then returned.  Expect about a month min to send parts of!
f and get then back.(the time could be more or less)

With an I4 conversion, you would be getting the same power (maybe a little more), just to eliminate the head leak. The hop up parts for the I4 can be costly and you would lose any bottom end to get more top end.

I also have a 5 speed SA .457 transmission, in fourth gear I can go to @ 75 mph around 5000 rpms, but I can also cruise around town in 5th at 35 mph then accelerate up to 80+, I can drop to fourth to get there quicker.  I have increased my top end WITHOUT the loss of my bottom end.

With a subie, you lose ground clearance and have a wiring problem, it costs as much or more than the modified rebuild, plus you still end up with a engine that has x amount or unknown miles, is used, has unknown problems and will need to be rebuilt or replaced soon anyway&#8230;with another USED engine.  Rebuild costs are$$$.  Hope that all the FI parts work and are included with the engine.  For those that like this risk&#8230;more power to you. (The person not the engine&#8230;)





<<<What would be cost effective for someone who is not a genius with a wrench.>>>
Building the engine is not hard.  If you have ever messed with a T1 Bug engine, the WBX is a T1 engine with water jackets.  Take lots of pictures before removel from the van to help when putting it back into the van.  The hardest part for me was the piston pin removel.

You would take the interal parts to the machine shop to have them cleaned and checked, all you would really be doing is putting it together.  All it takes is some time and no fear...

I used the Bently, Hanes and a book on "How to Rebuild your VW engine"(while this is for aircooled, the block assemble and the tips and info are really helpful) Another book is "How to Hot Rod your VW".  These are resources that I have used.  Another site is the www.geneberg.com site. Look at the teck tips, real helpful.

You would be investing the cost of labor into parts.





<<<And of course, the question of the hour: what can I do now to get the best performance from this engine?>>>


Add an K&N drop in filter, quad tip plugs, free flow muffler (Dynomax Super Turbo, @$58, almost a direct bolt on.), make sure all FI parts are working correctly.  Redline in the tranny and engine (watch for leaks with older engines).

I would not do much more than that, until a rebuild.


One thought is to get an engine and rebuild it while you drive the current one.  This reduces your down time.


Cost for the engine upgrades alone are under $1000. Add more if you need FI parts, hoses, and other parts are needed, 457 tranny is @$2000.
I have spent a lot in resoring my vanagon, I like to look it as "I am building me my NEW van, one piece at a time"

I hope to have the engine dyno&#8217;ed soon, once all the minor FI problems are fixed.  The problems with the FI are from a short in the Hall sensor wiring harness prior to the modified engine.

I had a bad AFM, hall sensor and wiring harness, T2 sensor, ECU, Idle control module, coil, injectors, and spark plug wires.  I have basically bought a new FI system due to a short in a wire.


Robert