Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2000 21:10:36 -0500
Reply-To: Marshall Ruskin <mruskin@PANGEA.CA>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Marshall Ruskin <mruskin@PANGEA.CA>
Subject: Re: Screen on pop top canvas. (LONG)
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>Can anyone who has installed the canvas top (sounds like you have first
>hand experience, Mark) give some pointers as to how to do it, hints and
tips?
>
>I am the proud owner of a new (to me at least) '81 camper which has a torn
>1-window top. I want to go to the three window top for this upcoming
>summer of camping.
>
>If searched the FAQ etc as I am sure someone has made a page about
>this. Any hit or pointers are greatly appreciated.
>
>Thanks in advance,
>Steve
>
>
>
>
>
>
>At 12:38 PM 6/5/00 -0700, Mark Mages wrote:
>>If you're up for it (and think about this carefully),
>>you can remove the pop-top canvas entirely (easy as
>>pie) take it down to your local tent-repair shop (also
>>easy) cough up $40 or so (still easy) have them
>>replace it with a nylon mesh that will not become
>>brittle in the sunlight over time, then re-attach the
>>canvas yourself (almost impossible without a helper,
>>and a royal pain with one..)
>>
>>The fiberglass screen will keep ripping. If it is bad
>>in one spot, then chances are the whole thing is
>>coming apart, and you will keep patching holes til you
>>replace it.
>>
>>My .02
>>
>>Mark
>>
>>--- "Chris R. Rowland" <cr_rowland@YAHOO.COM> wrote:
>> > I think from what I have heard that cutting a
>> > fiberglass netting patch to cover
>> > the torn area and using needle and thread to attach
>> > it is the best solution. I
>> > found a kit at a local RV store made by Colghan
>> > (sp?) with everything I needed.
>> > I am sure the parts could be found individually;
>> > i.e. canvas patch, fiberglass
>> > netting patch, glue, needle and thread. The Colghan
>> > kit looked like it had been
>> > on the shelf awhile so I don't know if it is still
>> > available.
>> >
>> > Chris
>> >
>> > --- Joel Cort <joel_cort@yahoo.com> wrote:
>> > > Chris,
>> > >
>> > > It does continue to get worse. Mine is in bad
>> > shape and the PO
>> > > decided to fix the rips with duct tape - looks
>> > reals good ... not!
>> > > The tape is also crinkled and ungluing. I need to
>> > get a new screen
>> > > and don't know how to sew the new one on. The
>> > Zipper part can be
>> > > sewn on before the install but the bottom seam is
>> > the tough one.
>> > >
>> > > Please let me know what you find out.
>> > >
>> > > Thanks
>> > > Joel
>> > > 89 Syncro Westy
>> > > Rochester NY
>> > >
>> > > --- "Chris R. Rowland" <cr_rowland@YAHOO.COM>
>> > wrote:
>> > > > Thanks for the floppy mirror fixes. Mine would
>> > flatten against the
>> > > > side of the
>> > > > Westy as soon as it experienced a wind speed of
>> > 70 MPH. That
>> > > > becomes cumulative
>> > > > in a head wind.
>> > > >
>> > > > My question is regarding the screen on my
>> > poptop. It is beginning
>> > > > to tear and I
>> > > > want to know what techniques to use to prevent
>> > it from becoming
>> > > > worse and the
>> > > > best method of repair.
>> > > >
>> > > > Thanks.
>> > > > Chris Rowland
>> > > > '85 Westy "Tinkerbell"
>> > > >
>> > > > =====
>> > > > C. R. Rowland
>> > > > cr_rowland@yahoo.com
Here's a recent posting that I happened to save - I did not write it, the
author (THANKS) appears at the end.
Marshall Ruskin
I checked the archives for "new canvas installation" and I found only a
cryptic message from Ron (BusDepot) so I thought I'd share my experience.
The short story is: "excellent quality canvas + my excellent work = great
looking new canvas". Here's the installation/experience story:
As you may recall the PPO of my van had an engine box fire and the canvas
was ruined. The PO had a canvas shop sew up a "new canvas" but he saw no
reason to put any windows in it. I am now about to ship the van to Cairo (I
picked up a job there) and I wanted more air up top, so I bought a new -
grey- 3 window canvas from Ron at the BusDepot.
Re Ron's canvas IMHO it is ery good quality (one or 2 un-even stitches) Very
good fit, very poor installation instructions. Ron should insist on better
instructions for $185!!
OK. This installation report is for my Canadian 1991 Syncro Westy. My van
has screwed-in rails holding the canvas to the pop-top and not the million
staples mentioned in Bentley and Ron's instructions. So the instructions
were nearly worthless for me, but my installation was simpler in many
regards.
I'd suggest that you begin on a day when you are feeling good about yourself
and the world, as you will need all of the patience that you can muster. I
am a university professor (finance) and it took me about 8 to 10 hours (over
2 days) but I was not in any hurry, in fact I loved lavishing the attention
on my van.
First I popped the top and, with an electric screw-driver, I un-screwed all
of the screws holding the rail holding the BOTTOM of the canvas to the van.
This was EASY. I labelled the rails as to front & back; right-front &
left-front.
I then began un-screwing the rails that held the canvas to the pop-top. I
used a step ladder for the sides and stood in the luggage rack, I also laid
down on the top bed and was able to reach around outside to easily unscrew
the rails. This step is also Easy!! I'm really good at taking things
APART!!! Care should be taken to NOT let the weight of the canvas bend the
rails.
One might be able to wiggle the old canvas up and over the top, but I
didn't. I took the pop-top off the van as I thought that putting the new
canvas on would be easier with the pop-top off the van and on the ground. In
retrospect, I think I did the right thing.
To remove the pop-top: At the front of the pop-top I un-screwed the 4
nuts/bolts that hold the "push-up bar" to the pop-top. BE CAREFUL as the
"push-up bar" is spring loaded, so prior to finally un-screwing the 4 top
nuts/bolts, close the roof and use some heavy wire or zip-straps (I used one
of each) to hold the "push-up bar" closed (hog-tied) for when you take the
weight off the "push-up bar". This would be like tying your wrist to your
armpit to keep your elbow closed.
I then had a choice of un-screwing the rear of the pop-top from the rear hin
ges (leaving the hinges attached to the van) or un-screwing the rear hinges
from the van (leaving the hinges attached to the pop-top). I might have made
a mistake here, your choice. I un-screwing the rear of the pop- top from the
rear hinges (leaving the hinges attached to the van), and the re-
installation was a PITA as there are 4 little plastic washers that
impossibly go in behind the hinge plates & the pop-top. Be sure to collect
these plastic washes during dis-assembly if you go this route. Also there is
some adjustment room where the pop-top fastens to the hinges and in removing
the pop-top, I lost this fine adjustment. It might have been easier to
re-install the hinges to the van, but one runs the risk of scratching the
paint. I needed about 5 minutes of help to lift the pop-top off the van. The
van sure looked funny with that star-gazing bed up there.
I then had dinner and slept for 8 hours. Next day, up-and-at-em.
Nice sunny day and I had not much else to do today. After washing the
underside of the pop-top (I used Clorox bleach & water) I turned the pop-top
up-side-down on the grass, being careful that the skylight did not rest on
the ground (might break). As per Ron's directions I measured the middle of
the front canvas panel (left to right for the top and bottom) and the middle
of the rear canvas panel (left to right for the top and bottom). My pop-top
has a screw point dead center across the front and dead-center across back
of the pop-top so getting the center of the canvas centred on the pop-top
was easy. Check TWICE or you will begin screwing the canvas on up-side-down.
Be careful when screwing the canvas back on, as I STRIPPED one of the
plastic "nuts" with the electric screw-driver. I did all the remaining
screws into the pop-top by hand. I screwed in the center first, then each
end. My new canvas had no slack in the ends and it was a bit of a stretch. I
did the same for the rear - center and then each edge. I then did the same
for the sides, with ZERO slack in the canvas, it lined up perfectly. I lined
up the top part of the canvas under the rail so that the black-edged border
was totally on the outside of the rail, just touching the side of the rail.
I didn't know if this would leave enough room at the bottom but it ended up
being just right. I did NOT put in all of the screws at this point as I
wanted to check the fit of the canvas top to bottom on the van. So:
I again needed about 5 minutes of help to lift the pop-top back on the van,
being VERY careful that the canvas did not catch on anything as I only had
it held on with 12 small screws.
It was easy to re-attach the front "push-up bar". I could then remove the
straps that were holding the push-up-bar "elbow" together. The rear hinges
were much more difficult. Remember that I took the pop-top off the hinges, 4
nuts/bolts on each side with plastic washers between the hinges and the pop-
top. Two of the nuts/bolts/washers went on OK, but the other 2 were
impossible for me. So, being a university professor, Ithought I'd try some
"thinking". I cut up some similar thickness plastic I had in the basement
and left a long tongue on the plastic "washer" so that I could hold the
plastic washer in place as I slipped the bolt through. I tried to align the
adjustment to about where it had been, but I think I got it to tight, so
I'll have to re-adjust it soon.
I was really happy to see that the canvas was nearly perfect in its fit to
the bottom where it attached to the van. I spot checked the fit with the
bottom rails and it was going to fit OK. So I began screwing in the rest of
the TOP screws, again being careful that the black edging was constant
around the outside edge. I did all the screws by hand so as to not strip any
of the plastic "nuts".
Contrary to Ron's instructions, I started with the front part of the bottom
of the canvas. I wanted this part to look perfect and if there was any
gathering to be done, I wanted it to be in the rear. So I found my center
mark and screwed that right under the center hole of the rail, pulling the
canvas under the rail to made the canvas tight. I used the electric
screw-driver for these metal screws. I then worked my way out from the
center watching the canvas so that there were no wrinkles. The corners were
taut as the canvas fit so tightly, it was difficult to get the canvas around
the rail. This is NOT a criticism of the canvas quality (I wanted a tight
fit) just a statement of fact. I used a pair of pliers to pull the canvas
tight under the rail.
I then put on the side rails and screwed in ONLY the front, middle, and rear
screws on both sides. This was easy. The rear rail was a PITA, really tight
and difficult to work back in there (and the sewn-in bungie cord pulling in
the wrong direction), but I was able to get it with a lot of effort and a
few naps :-)
I then went back along the sides and pulled the canvas tight under the rail
and screwed the canvas down under the rail. I had to re-do the center of the
front rail to get it a bit tighter. The most canvas that I pulled in under
the bottom rail was an inch. The cut of the canvas was nearly perfect.
I can tell you that the canvas looks every bit as good as "factory new". It
is tight all the way around and no wrinkles and 3 windows. Ron, I am 100%
satisfied with the canvas.
Next is the complete exhaust (ceramic coated) and a few other expensive
goodies and then I'm off.
Hope you enjoyed the story and I hope that this might help you.
Malcolm Stebbins
