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Date:         Thu, 1 Jun 2000 22:48:08 -0500
Reply-To:     Marshall Ruskin <mruskin@PANGEA.CA>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Marshall Ruskin <mruskin@PANGEA.CA>
Subject:      Re: Kick back
Comments: To: dan <pinkfloyddan@ADELPHIA.NET>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

The problem you are experiencing is EXTREMELY common, and this list must have gotten 50 or so posts describing the same problem, in the 18 months or so I I've been a list member

The problem is often caused by the air flow meter being noisy inside, and this basically screws up the fuel computer.

The AFM is like a potentiometer, or a variable resistor, with an electrical contact that moves across a resistive surface, in response to air flow - sort of like a spring-loaded weathervane. A bit or dirt or carbon will make it perform badly - just like bad volume control will make "crackling noise" in a radio.

The more airflow, the farther the contact moves across the surface - so the AFM produces a voltage, proportional to the air flow.

The good news is that there are several easy solutions to this problem that work pretty well.

My favorite, since it totally fixed my problem, and was very easy to accomplish, and cost essentially nothing, is the following:

Get a utility knife, and some electronic spray cleaner at your auto parts store;

Locate the AFM, and note that it has a black plastice lid - which we will remove next;

The lid is has a slot in its perimeter, that the main body of the AFM fits into - like a snap on lid on a margarine tub - so run a utility knife along the edge to slice the rubbery silicone sealer that is holding it in place;

Starting at a corner, use a screwdriver and carefully pry the lid loose - the silicone will give way slowly, so take your time;

Lid removed? Good! Now take the spray, and spray the resistive surface that the contact runs on. Move the contact back and forth, so that it gets cleaned too;

Let it dry naturally - avoid getting lint or dirt in it - or you'll have to do this again sometime!

Place lid back on, and tape it shut.

I'd never done it before, and it only took me maybe ten minutes tops, and I'm a slowpoke - very careful.

Hope this helps.

Marshall Ruskin 84 Westy "Iron Igloo" Winnipeg, Manitoba Canada

>Hi friends, >I am looking for some answers to bring to my mechanic. When I am driving my >1984 1.9L, and after it warms up (8 minutes) the Van kicks back when >cruising, or when trying to pass another vehicle. It feels like I lose >power and then it comes back real quick, causing the van to jolt. My >mechanic has checked my plugs and all other basic tune-up areas. He says it >could be electric. Anyone else ever have this problem and what was needing >some care? >My Van is like so close to being a real nice driver. I have spent 700 plus >on it in the past 6 months in hopes of getting a reliable vehicle. I can >feel the satisfaction, my car hasn't felt better, but it just needs this >thing fixed!! Thanks for any help! > >Dan >


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