Date:         Mon, 12 Jun 2000 16:18:01 -0400
Reply-To:     ehall@TOGETHER.NET
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Ezra Hall <ehall@TOGETHER.NET>
Subject:      Seam Rust, Vinyl protective film, etc..
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

I am in the midst of doing a bunch of work on our 1988 Westy, including planning
for seam rust repairs. I have read everything in the archives, but have a few
questions and ideas I would like to toss around.

1) Removal of existing rust
   Marshall Ruskin's 19 Apr, 2000 posting indicates usage of a utility knife
to remove existing rust. This would be an excellent initial step for rust removal,
should any additional steps be taken to remove all rust?
     - Sand Blasting (I would have to rent equipment)
     - Navel Jelly or Hydrochloric Acid
         (besides water, what can be used to
          remove and neutralize acid that may
          seep deep into the seam?)

2) Rust protection
   Not having a compressor or spray gun, my options are somewhat limited. My
local FLAPS sells SER spray paint cans (these paints are labeled unsafe for
use by the general public, Methelyne chloride, etc...) and seem to be of higher
quality. They didn't seem to have a problem selling them to me though, any comments
on quality? I have a mask.. Here is what I purchased:
   a) Etching Primer, Grey
   b) Rust preventative sealing primer
   c) Eastwood's Corroless rust neutralizing and
      prevention primer, how would this compare to b?

   d) How clean does the surface need to be for galvanizing?
      Could one build a temporary tank along each seam
      and electroplate with zinc?

Should I get two part epoxy primer as Marshall recommends? How long can it stay
mixed before curing?

3) Paint
    I will try to find a local flaps to color match and make a spray can. My
general opinion of Plasticoat and other touch up paints is they don't last.
Van is Blue (metalic?)

4) Chip protection
     a) I bought a can of SER Black and SER Clear textured
        protective spray. I will use these on irregular
        surfaces
     b) 48" x 30feet x 2mil 8year life vinyl, I will apply
        this to all flat and slightly curved surfaces
     c) 6 or 8mil vinyl, using this on headlights, and any
        high stress areas
     d) Stainless steel sticky backed sheet from JC Whitney,
        fairly thick, not sure where I will use this.
     e) 3M 6 or 8mil $$$ 6" wide tape, for those really
        critical areas? Perhaps around the edge of the
        wheel wells.
     f) Clear 3M seam sealant, claimed not to shrink and to
        stay flexible. Should I paint under of over this
        sealant on the seams?

I have already installed 6-8mil thick vinyl behind the side utilities, it really
looks nice! and should protect the area well. I covered one cracked headlight
with this stuff, that combined with sealing around edge of the glass has stopped
that fish bowl look and cost next to nothing in comparison to a new headlight.
Bonus, it is protected from almost any future chipping. The savings alone from
this paid for the roll of 48" x 30' vinyl...

 How do I stop and fix the frame rust where the sliding door roller rolls? I
didn't do an archive search on this topic.

Obviously from the work I am doing, you can tell we want to keep our van for
a while! I also know we need to address the interior of the panels, pull out
the cabinets, etc.. but I don't want to do this right away. Should I wait on
seam repair until this is done?

I ran into an older gentleman with an '82 Diesel Westy, years ago he claimed
to have purchases a gallon of Zinc paint at Agway and applied this to the interior
of all panels, supposedly stopped all rust. My local Agway didn't have any paint
and didn't know what I was talking about. My experience with other vehicles
is that regular paint alone doesn't stop the rust. How well would a solvent/paint
based zinc loaded paint work as a sacrificial anode? Obviously it wouldn't work
well as a base for automotive paint, but on interior surfaces this sounds promising.

  Other than slight seam rust (as evidenced by seepage of brown colored stains
at some seams) the paint is in excellent shape...

phew, a long note, sorry, and so many other items I am working on to talk about,
but sooo much work todo.......

I'am on digest, please copy me directly.

Thanks!
 Ezra Hall
'88 Westy, taking all my "spare" time not that work is leaving me any..

'86 Porsche 944, 260,000 miles, running strong, no rust

'95 Golf, 51K, Auto, 4door, blk,had for two years, no one wants to buy it for
$7900, what gives?