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Date:         Mon, 12 Jun 2000 16:41:08 -0400
Reply-To:     ehall@TOGETHER.NET
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Ezra Hall <ehall@TOGETHER.NET>
Subject:      Thermostat for Dometic Fridge (fan), where to find?
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Where do I purchase a new thermostat for the Dometic Fridge? This is the guy mentioned on the list to turn on at ~120-130 Deg F and turn off at ~110 deg F. Currently I am running the fan (a replacement muffin fan) whenever the fridge is on. I also installed a small computer CPU fan above the fins on the inside of the fridge, it helps a lot! The local RV dealer that sells Dometic fridges was clueless! Is there an efficiency improvement if I leave the rear fan on all the time when running the fridge? I can't tell from http://www.rvmobile.com/Tech/Trouble/cooldoc.htm if the rear cooling fins need to be a certain temp or just cooled as much as possible. I am guessing that as long as the perc tube is hot enough to vaporize the Ammonia, one can cool the condensor and other cooling fins as much as they want, any comments? Obviously running the fan inside the fridge at all times is helpfull...

Also, I sealed the combustion chamber with Blue permatex after cleaning, now it stays lit while driving at highway speeds.

There have been a lot of postings lately with regards to the flame LED, mine doesn't work now, where is the thermocouple located? It worked prior to pulling the fridge just a week or two ago. If my memory serves correct, there is a solid wire from the combustion chamber to the mechanical thermostat which conducts heat from the flame to this mechanical gas flow valve (the one which rotates and sets the flame strength). I assume when no heat is conducted through this solid wire the gas flow valve doesn't turn on, that is why one has to hold the "primer" down to initiate gas flow until heated.

Is the electrical thermocouple located in this valve/thermostat or did I forget about a wire going to the combustion chamber? I have been to David Beirl's web site: http://pws.prserv.net/synergy/Vanagon/ and may perform the simple modifications he suggests, but something is obviously awry from my last pull of the fridge..

I performed the air pump modification, it lights much better now. I also used a free re-build kit from Manchester to repair the auto-stop valve on the LP tank, what nice folks to send me a free kit! I also replaced the regulator with a 390 unit I believe? Thanks to whomever it was that sent me the Manchester auto-stop rebuild tip!

Thanks! Ezra

on digest, please copy directly (ehall@together.net)


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