Date: Sun, 18 Jun 2000 23:09:32 EDT
Reply-To: kenneth d lewis <kdlewis@juno.com>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: kenneth d lewis <kdlewis@juno.com>
Subject: Re: Bleeding clutch system--what gives?
Tobin;
The clutch pedal should return, it has a spring, doesn't it? How
about the clutch lever on the side of the tranny, does it have lots of
resistance? You should not be able to operate it by hand. I have had the
pressure plate crack leaving me with a floppy pedal.
Drive Safely & Good Luck
Ken Lewis <Kernersville,NC>
86 VW crewcab;60 356B Coupe
--------------------------------------------------
On Sun, 18 Jun 2000 16:11:31 -0700 Tobin Copley <tobin.copley@ubc.ca>
writes:
>Hi all,
>
>I'm just replaced a failed master clutch cylinder and encountered a
>frustrating problem. Maybe it is not a problem, I just don't know.
>
>Here's the deal:
>
>Bentley is of no use at all in this procedure. I did find Sean
>Bartnik's very helpful instructions on the Bart-no-tek site, and
>everything appeared very straight forward.
>
>Pulling the master cylinder itself was no problem at all. Installing
>the replacement hit a bit of a hitch, as the threads for the
>hydraulic fitting on the replacement were damaged (from the box) and
>I had to send it back, via courier, for a new one. Meanwhile, the
>bad threads had damaged my hydraulic line, so had to pull that and
>get the threads cleaned up.
>
>OK. Hydraulic line back in, new master cylinder back in without
>problems. Sean's instructions say to bleed the master cylinder at
>the hydraulic fitting until no more air bubbles come out.
>
>I've been doing this for over two hours now, and while it's pretty
>hard to distinguish air bubbles from squirts of fluid, I strongly
>suspect I still have air trapped in the cylinder. Pedal feels very
>light, and will not return without pulling back up by hand.
>Resistance is not even through the stroke--seems to have little
>resistance at top half of stroke, that a noticeable abrupt increase
>in resistance for the bottom third or so. Even then, though, not a
>strong pressure. The reservoir fluid level does go down over time,
>but very slowly (only trickles come out the bottom when bleeding).
>
>People's posts to me earlier about how to do the master cylinder
>replacemenr all noted that the bleeding took a long time. But *two
>hours* at the master cylinder and no real change in the feel of the
>pedal, and a pedal that will not return by itself? Can this be right?
>
>As an added cruel twist, I realize now the bleeder nut at the slave
>is substantially bigger than used for brakes, and the tubing i have
>is stretch tight over it, and not entirely over it that I may not be
>able to get an air-tight seal on that end.
>
>When should my pedal start to feel normal, or at least return on its
>own?
>
>I've never done this jump before. I don't have a point of reference
>on this. I think my knuckles must be bleeding more than my hydraulic
>line. I really would rather be taking my kids for ice cream than
>trying to bleed a master cylinder for two hours and apparently not
>getting anywhere.
>
>I'd be really open to any suggestions on how to get over this
>problem, as right now I feel like an idiot.
>
>Thanks,
>
>T.
>-------------------------------------------------------------------------
>Tobin Copley Bowen Island, BC, Canada
>tobin.copley@ubc.ca
>
>'82 westy 1.6L NA diesel ("Stinky")
>'97 son Russell =============
>'99 daughter Margaret /_| |__| |__|:|
>clatter
>1995: 'Round US, Mexico, Canada 15,000 mi O|. .|
>clatter!
>1996: Vancouver to Inuvik, NWT 7,400 km ~-()-==----()-~
>Previous buses: '76 westy deluxe (Daisy), '76 westy standard (Mango)
>http://www.sfu.ca/~tcopley/vw/
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