Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 14:40:07 +0100
Reply-To: "P. Marston" <pmarston@instech.co.uk>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: "P. Marston" <pmarston@instech.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Removing the top ball joint.
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
When I replaced mine I removed the top ball joint by hammering on the flat
on the hub itself (parallel to the ball joint thread) i.e. not touching the
actual ball joint or the threaded road, the force was enough to dislodge the
ball joint from the tapered hole - it was still on the van so it was under
tension from the suspension. I was told by a mechanic friend that the
striking force distorts the shape of the hole and allows it to pop out.
Whatever it does it worked for me. Didn't need any special tools - other
than a spanner & a hammer, it also didn't damage the ball joint or the
rubber seal.
To remove the bottom joint was a lot more work. I removed the hub & put it
upside down in a vice. Used an angle grinder to grind an X on the bottom
(flat part) of the lower ball joint until I was through to the ball. Then I
bashed the ball joint through this hole (it just all falls out with a good
hit). Then I used a hacksaw to put a saw cut through the wall of the ball
joint (sawing through the hole), the saw cut allows the ball joint wall to
collapse and then you can tap it out with a hammer. Took about an hour
each.
I got my local press shop to press the new lower joints.
Philm
T25.
----- Original Message -----
From: wb6otg <wb6otg@intrex.net>
To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Sent: Friday, June 16, 2000 1:56 PM
Subject: Re: Removing the top ball joint.
> I just did this last weekend (along with the lower ball joints and the tie
rod ends)
>
> The upper ball joint is actually the easy one!. Clamp the assembly that
the ball joint is pressed into in a vise and drive the ball joint out with a
hand sledge or other LARGE hammer. Use a steel rod or something as a drift
so you are not hitting the ball joint directly. Pounding directly on the
joint could spread out the top of it enough to keep it from going through
the hole once you get it loose. I used a 1 inch steel rod, and the top of
it spread considerably by the time I was done!
>
> The lower ball joint is the real pain. It takes over 10 tons of force to
press it in, and you need a special tool (which took quite a bit of time to
make) just to be able to press it in!
>
> Bill
> >Okay .. what's the secret here....
>
> >I've got one of those wedge things but it don't seem
> >to make much difference. Should the joint be fixed to
> >the top sub-frame as it hit it or not.
>
> >I tried one of those screw type gadgets that operate
> >by forcing the joint apart as you screw it in. - Too
> >small, could not get it attached.
>
> >A loaned a big mother of a gadget from AUtozone - too
> >big. This one is like a big G-clamp. you use two
> >hollow tubes and then screw a piece in .. too
> >difficult to explain!
>
> >Upshot is I'm making no progress .. any help ? or is
> >it a job for the 'professionals'!
>
> steve
>
|