Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 09:27:26 -0700
Reply-To: "J. C." <jcblues@yahoo.com>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: "J. C." <jcblues@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Wandering in Wyoming...LONG!
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Jon,
Having worked in Yellowstone for 5 seasons and
traversed the state of wyo a few times, let me add a
couple (actually a bunch of) suggestions. First off I
second everything that Jeff wrote. A list of other
off the beaten path spots:
1. Heart mountain relocation camp,where Japanese
people were imprisoned during WW2. It's on the road
between Cody & Powell, East of jellostone. THere are
still a few bldgs standing, and you just drive up and
wander through. No visitor center, etc. Do notice the
different tones of the plaques: the one on the main
road erected circa 1950 and the ones erected in the
80s by Powell H.S. students. You can see here how time
helps to put things into diff perspectives.
2. Thermopolis. It's kinda like crossing yellowstone
w/ disneyland, but mostly for locals. About 2 water
parks and the Wyoming State Bathhouse are located
there, all feeding off natural hot springs. If you're
traveling w/ kids on a hot day, it's a must. one of
the waterparks even has a sulfur cave, for those who
crave the smell of rotten eggs.
3. The camping inside the park is nuts, you need to
get there wicked early and defend your site. Worth it
insofar as reducing the driving time. If you camp in
the park, both indian creek and norris campgrounds are
nice. You may be able to park behind a hotel, or in an
employee parking area, too. They will chase you out if
you park overnight on the pullouts--you can imagine
the mess if they didn't keep them clear.
4. Camping just outside the park is much nicer: I
camped at Eagle creek campground, 2 mi uphill from
Gardiner (n. entrance) on memorial day weekend and had
the entire campground to ourselves! There's one tent
site that has the most spectacular view i've ever seen
from a campsite, views across the valley to mammoth
hot springs electric peak and the gallatin range. It's
the last site on your left when you go into the c.g.,
and you cross a little stream to get there. it's in an
isolated bowl, near the beaver dam. Also, there's lots
of nice camping in the n.f. between cody and the park,
along the shoshone river.
5. Showers in the park are at a premium. I suggest:
a) make your own shower--see one of my old postings
for a supersimple way to do so, b) use the shower at
mammoth hotel. it's located in the hallway of the 1st
floor, next to the ice machine. No worries. c) see #6
below:
6. Swimming in yellowstone is the best! ONce the h2o
levels decrease (snowmelt in progress now) the park
service will open up the firehole river and gardiner
river for swimming. In the firehole (take firehole
drive, nearish old faithful) you can jump into rapids
and float through a narrow canyon in about 80 degree
water. The Gardiner has a paradise-like small hot
waterfall you can sit under. It's bliss. (park at the
gardiner river turnout between n. entrance and
mammoth) . Later in the summer, moose falls (south
entrance road, between boundary and grant) is about
72-75 degrees, and you can swim under the 40'falls and
around them. beautiful. All these are legal but you
won't find them on any park information. There are
some backcountry spots, too, but I won't broadcast
them right now.
7. Went dancing in Cheyenne a few weeks ago at Cowboy
South. Like walking into a movie! This was great fun.
If you want the full cheyenne experience, stay at the
ranger motel, where all the ranchers stay...
8. Sierra trading post is also based in Cheyenne, w/
an outlet in Cody. These are worth stopping at for
outdoor bargains.
9. If you're exploring cody, cross the river
(opposite of town) and check out the strange
potholes, about 100' deep, maybe 100' across.
10. You can drive way up Carter mountain, near cody
and camp in a nice spot, great for a backpacking base
camp.
11. Chico hot springs, north of the park, is the
opposite of Thermop. it's a rather classy spot w/ 2
hot swimming pools, no sulfur smell, and costs only
$4/day to hang out there. Restraunt and music is
s'posed to be nice, too.
12. There's whitewater rafting all over the place. if
you have your own canoe, you can put in in the ystone
river just north of gardiner and go as far as you
want. Very nice class 1-2.
13. For dining, I recommend the park cafe in
Gardiner. The food in the YNP hotels has gone
downhill, unfortunately, over the last few years,
under new mgmt. Lake hotel has a string quartet
playing in the lounge 5 nights/week, usually from the
Juliard school.
14. I also recommend finding a tiny road and taking it
across the rangeland for a ways, to get the feel of
openness. Bring extra gas & water!
15. The Buckhorn bar in Laramie is a good place to
meet locals. However, i've also never seen this level
of intoxication anywhere. It's really sad. You'll also
notice that lots of gas stations and liquor stores
have stand-up bars in them, too.
16. Nolls outdoor school is in Lander, worth stopping
in, if you're in town.
17. If you want a mild backpack trip, hike the Black
canyon trail up from GArdiner and stay at site 1y1 for
a couple days. it's right on the ystone river, has a
big beach! and a nice hike to knowles falls, up the
trail. Reserve it in advance. the hike in is extremely
diverse, and not too difficult. Hot in midsummer,
though.
18. you've probably heard of the beartooth highway,
n.e. of the park, past cooke city. It's even more
spectacular than you think. That's my favorite spot
for backpacking. mostly above treeline.
19. Look at the Grand tetons from a distance, but i
wouldn't get much closer, unless for sailing on
jackson or jenny lakes. Hiking is much like walking
through the Loop in Chicago at rush hour.
20. Jackson has a symphony orchestra and the mormon
tabernacle performs there annually.
21. The animals of course are everywhere in
Jellystone. Keep asking rangers where the best places
to see bears & wolves are, because it can change from
day to day. Bring the strongest binocs or scope you
can. Obviously, the bison are dangerous. new park emps
are required to watch a video of some guy getting too
close and then getting gored when he tries to put his
kid on one for a pic.... Watch the tails: limp=happy,
as they get pissed off, the tail begins to become
erect. when it points straight up, it'll likely
charge. Also, a ranger told me he'd rather encounter
a bear than a moose on the trail. Moose are way more
unpredictable.
ok ok enough! you can tell what my favorite state is!
Feel free to email me w/ questions.
Have a great trip!
Jim Carter
Enfield, NH
'84 westy: the Orange Violin
--- Jeffrey R <Oxroad@aol.com> wrote:
> In a message dated 6/18/2000 11:50:12 PM Eastern
> Daylight Time,
> TCarrington@ReliTech.com writes:
>
> << Any listers with travel suggestions in the area
> and any listers in Wyoming
> > who >>
> JON--
>
> Depnding on where you're travelling from the
> Medicine Wheel in the Big Horn
> Mountains of Wyoming is an interesting spot on the
> way. It is a holy ground
> of sorts for Native Americans. And while I don't
> know much about Native
> American culture I understand the Wheel is a very
> spiritual place. It is
> still used for many ceremonies by tribes from all
> across america. It is in a
> national forest and it's an easy hike from the
> parking lot of about 1/4 mile
> I think.
>
> The Wheel is made from stones set in the ground. And
> while it, in my opinion,
> isn't the most beautiful collection of stones it can
> be a spiritual
> experience if one is open to that. The Wheel is
> supposed to have healing
> powers. There's something mysterious about it and
> the fact that it is held as
> a place of great spiritual value to the oldest of
> Americans make it
> interesting experience. No one has information on
> when it was built, but the
> stone configuration may be coordinated to line up
> with the Winter and Summer
> Soltices.
>
> The Big Horn mountains are beautiful and
> interesting. The different layers of
> soil are dated as you drive up some of the
> mountains. And the mountains are
> quite colorful. The Big Horns are east of
> Yellowstone in the area of Greybull
> and Shell. It all should be marked on any Wyoming
> map I think the Route is 14
> or 14A.
>
> There are a couple of good hikes in the Big Horn
> national forest although
> there are much less trials than in Yellowstone--but
> less people too. The one
> I would recommend is to Bucking Mule Falls. I don't
> think it's a strenuous
> hike if I remember correctly but there is a great
> view at the end of the
> trail as your reward including Buking Mule Falls in
> the distance. The Park
> Rangers are very helpful and can tell you how to get
> to the hikes and whether
> they are right for you and your family depending on
> the age of your children.
> You can also camp almost anywhere as it is a
> National Forest. So there is
> some rule like you have to be 100 yards from the
> highway or something but
> then you can camp anywhere. There are maintained
> campgrounds as well with no
> hook ups and primative toilets.
>
> From my Yellowstone experience I would recommend
> Indian Creek campground if
> you get up nearMonmouth. It's a small campground
> near a river and there have
> always been Elk wandering around when I've been
> there. There are no hookups
> at this site and primitive toilets. I have just
> found it to be less crowed
> than some of the yellowstone campgrounds in that
> there aren't too many sites
> available--meaning even when it's full it's not so
> bad. Some of the larger
> campgrounds can be a bid overwhelming IMHO.
> Depending on how old your kids
> are the lectures at the campgrounds are interesting.
> Having said that I don't
> think they have the lectures at Indian Creek, but
> there is usually one every
> night in Monmouth.
>
> As far as things to do there are plenty of hikes and
> geysers and hot springs
> to keep you busy. The Park is great about supplying
> maps and books.
>
> If you head out north from Yellowstone toward Cook
> City there is a great
> drive on the Beartooth Highway (? I think that's the
> right name?) up toward
> Red Lodge which is a spectacular drive. My bus got a
> little warm, the engine
> that is, running up the steep grade so I turned on
> both the front and rear
> heaters. While it is a climb it's definately worth
> the drive. If you can't
> make it this trip make it another because it's
> spectacular.
>
> Have a great trip.
>
> Jeff
> 83.5 Westy
> NYC
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Send instant messages with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com/
