Vanagon EuroVan
Previous messageNext messagePrevious in topicNext in topicPrevious by same authorNext by same authorPrevious page (June 2000, week 3)Back to main VANAGON pageJoin or leave VANAGON (or change settings)ReplyPost a new messageSearchProportional fontNon-proportional font
Date:         Mon, 19 Jun 2000 16:05:58 -0700
Reply-To:     harald_nancy <harald_nancy@earthlink.net>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         harald_nancy <harald_nancy@earthlink.net>
Subject:      Re: Becketts Tome on Dual Batt.s,Relays,Saftey,and charging (Very
              Long)
Comments: To: Daniel Schmitz <djs@gene.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

Dan 1) I would start by making sure that the alternator on the '82 vang. is in good shape. Take it out and find an automotive electrical shop that rebuilds Bosch alternators, starters etc. Pay them a small fee to have the alternator tested. The alternator should always be in top condition (especially the smaller 65amp alt. on the '82) to work properly with the isolator. If it has more than a 110 thou. miles on it, have the shop install new bearings and consider a new regulator, to make sure you get the highest voltage possible. The alt. has to work harder with the isolator. I had much better successs rebuilding my orig. alternators than buying rebuilt ones. I put new brushes and bearings in mine every 110 thou.miles. I don't know what brand isolator you are using. It could be a Sure Power 702R up to 70 amp, or 952R up to 95 amp or 1202R up to 120 amp. The R stands for Remote regulator sensing. This terminal is supposed to be connected to the regulator in the following manner: (if that is what you got) 2) Alternator does not need to be removed. Just unscrew the regulator ( that black thing with the little round disc) and take it out. ( be careful with the brushes) Bend over the metal tab that contacts inside the alt. ( bend it all the way up) and solder a # 14 wire to it. Push the contact prong inside the alt. a bit more in, to make sure it won't make contact. Reinstall regulator. That wire goes to the R terminal on the isolator. Now the alternator can compensate for the 0.8 volt voltage drop across the diodes. 3) How old is the isolator? I don't know if the diodes in the isolators become less efficient with age, but they can burn out. Just like everything else. If the isolator is 18 years old, I would replace it or at least, test it. They are not that expensive. The 952R I think is $ 40 to 50. Good for the 65 amp alternator. If you have the 90 amp alt. use the 1202R for longevity. If an isolator fails, (burns out) it can connect both batteries, and charging efficiency will be reduced, and also both batteries will be discharged when using camping appliances (12 volt). 4) The batteries could also be less efficient from age or use. or it can be a combination of all of the above. Harald 90 westy

--------- > From: Daniel Schmitz <djs@gene.com> > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > Subject: Re: Becketts Tome on Dual Batt.s,Relays,Saftey,and charging (Very Long) > Date: Sunday, June 18, 2000 11:52 PM > > Related to this thread, I have an isolator on my '82 Adventurewagen. It used to > work well, but I noticed that in the last several years, the voltage drop across > the alternator terminal and either of the charging terminals is such that my > batteries aren't always getting enough voltage to charge properly. > > Couple with this, I never did use that 4th, smaller terminal on the isolator. Is > that the alternator sensing terminal, and if so, what should it be wired to? > > Currently I'm bypassing the isolator so my battery always gets a good charge. > > ...Dan > > Beckett Cantrell wrote: > > > Harald, please forgive me if I seemed to insinuate that batt. isolators were > > no good. Some work wonderfully, the key being the remote sensing terminal you > > mentioned. I aimed the previous posts at relay switched dual batt. charging > > systems as they are much more common and inexpensive than the isolator > > methoud. > > Good luck, > > Beckett

---------- > From: Daniel Schmitz <djs@gene.com> > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > Subject: Re: Becketts Tome on Dual Batt.s,Relays,Saftey,and charging (Very Long) > Date: Sunday, June 18, 2000 11:52 PM > > Related to this thread, I have an isolator on my '82 Adventurewagen. It used to > work well, but I noticed that in the last several years, the voltage drop across > the alternator terminal and either of the charging terminals is such that my > batteries aren't always getting enough voltage to charge properly. > > Couple with this, I never did use that 4th, smaller terminal on the isolator. Is > that the alternator sensing terminal, and if so, what should it be wired to? > > Currently I'm bypassing the isolator so my battery always gets a good charge. > > ...Dan > > Beckett Cantrell wrote: > > > Harald, please forgive me if I seemed to insinuate that batt. isolators were > > no good. Some work wonderfully, the key being the remote sensing terminal you > > mentioned. I aimed the previous posts at relay switched dual batt. charging > > systems as they are much more common and inexpensive than the isolator > > methoud. > > Good luck, > > Beckett


Back to: Top of message | Previous page | Main VANAGON page

Please note - During the past 17 years of operation, several gigabytes of Vanagon mail messages have been archived. Searching the entire collection will take up to five minutes to complete. Please be patient!


Return to the archives @ gerry.vanagon.com


The vanagon mailing list archives are copyright (c) 1994-2011, and may not be reproduced without the express written permission of the list administrators. Posting messages to this mailing list grants a license to the mailing list administrators to reproduce the message in a compilation, either printed or electronic. All compilations will be not-for-profit, with any excess proceeds going to the Vanagon mailing list.

Any profits from list compilations go exclusively towards the management and operation of the Vanagon mailing list and vanagon mailing list web site.