Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 15:12:07 EDT
Reply-To: Oxroad@aol.com
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Jeffrey R <Oxroad@aol.com>
Subject: pop top seal ill fitting cured (I think?)
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
For those who were following my pop top seal saga over at onelist, the
problem seems close to being solved--or I dare say solved.
To recap, I installed a new pop top seal and couldn't get the pop top front
flat seal to seal properly to the rear of the luggage rack between the pop
top and the rack. There was about an 1/8 to 1/4 inch gap for about four
inches in the very center of the front flat pop top seal where it meets the
back of the luggage rack.
Long story short, I shimmed the two inner carriage bolts on the rear of the
luggage rack to bring it up to where the front of the pop top can get close
enough to the luggage rack for the seal to make a seal.
One listee, Jin Fritz, remembered a post where someone suggessted sitting on
the luggage rack (or having someone else sit on it) to get it to sit properly
on the roof before tightening the bolts. This was a remedy for a noisy pop
top, but it helped in seating mine "correctly". So thank you.
Now what was the problem? The jury is still out. I'm leaning toward Capt.
Mike's suggestion over at Westfalia.org that the DPO put heavy loads
exceeding the VW recommended 110 pound limit in the luggage rack causeing it
to change shape over time--effectively crushing the rear of the rack. Could
also be the front of the pop top has warped in the middle. Whatever the case
something wasn't exactly right as the gap between the rack and pop top in
that center were far too wide. Enter the shims.
(Or what if the bus was in an accident that changed the configuration of the
body up front enough to make a difference or the roof line?)
I also wonder if leaving the pop top off the bus in the warm weather for a
week warped it? And no, Chris, I didn't drive the bus the week the luggage
rack was off.
As for the Bus depot seal it looks great. At close inspection not factory but
from three feet away it looks stock. I took another listee's suggestion and
used black silicon sealer to "join" the side seals with the front flat seal.
(available at FLAPS for gasket sealing--called RPM, RTP, R something I can't
remember exactly) The original seal is already joined, but the aftermarket
seal is not. The silicon just makes it look cleaner and more stock. This part
was very easy, just fill in the gap.
I also filled the front of both sides of the side seals. It's kind of the
diameter of a ziti noodle so I filled it with the silicon to keep water out.
Is this necessary? I don't know. But the process involved opening the pop top
about 12 inches and filling or capping the end with the silicon. Then letting
it dry before closing or opening the pop top either way. Opening it will suck
the wet silicon in, closing will pop the wet silicon out.
When replacing the seal, if I had to do it again, I'd mark the spot where the
luggage rack meets the roof of the bus to be sure it was put back in the
exact place. Could you maybe mark the body paint with a crayon without doing
damage to the paint and when finished whipe off the marks?
Thanks all for the help.
There is a gap on the passenger side of the luggage rack right over the
a-pillar corner that is about 1/4 of an inch. Meaning it is not flush to the
roof contour at that point. Is this OK? I understand if the rack makes no
noise it is OK. True?
Thanks again
Jeff
83.5 Westy
NYC sort of
