Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 19:28:47 EDT
Reply-To: kenneth d lewis <kdlewis@juno.com>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: kenneth d lewis <kdlewis@juno.com>
Subject: Re: ATF/MMO
Donna;
You forgot to energize your universal grease monkey translator.
Had you done so I believe the response would have meant that an
aggressive cleaner would dislodge large chunks where a gentle method
would slowly wash it away.
Frankly I have never received a good reason as to which method
was best. It seems to me the big chunks would just end up in the filter
anyway. Personnaly I have never done either, instaed I just change the
oil at <3000 mile intervals (my 86 Transporter just turned over 199K on
the original engine).
Drive Safely & Good Luck
Ken Lewis <Kernersville,NC>
86 VW crewcab;60 356B Coupe
--------------------------------------------------
On Wed, 26 Jul 2000 15:30:48 -0400 "(Donna Cassano)"
<pokeswagon@blazenet.net> writes:
>Hi List,
>
>Let me tell you how the ATF/MMO treatment went, er -ah, didn't went.
>
>This is what I was going to do per an old posting to the List:
>here's the post....
><<
>Warm up motor by driving.
>Drain engine oil. Change filter to any brand.
>Refill with 1/2 & 1/2 engine oil and Automatic Transmission fluid,
>any
>brand.
>Start motor, BUT DO NOT DRIVE THE VAN!!!!
>Allow the motor to idle, and rev it gently every once in a while
>(like
>to
>2,000 rpm) for about 20 minutes.
>Drain Oil. Change filter to MANN or VW brand filter (NO Fram,
>Autocrap,
>AC
>Smelco, etc.)
>Refill with Castrol 20w50, and about 8-16 oz of Marvel Mystery Oil.
>In 1,000 to 1,500 miles change your oil again and use a MANN or VW
>filter.
>Kiss your ticking lifter goodbye.
>
>
>The ATF is HIGHLY detergent, and will clean out the lifter. The Marvel
>Mystery oil will continue the process. The good filter will prevent
>the
>oil
>from draining out of the lifters overnight.
>After all of that is done, run a compression check to verify that you
>don't have any bum valves. You prolly don't.
>>>
>
>I went to my trusty friend Gil's shop to see if he could give me bay
>space on this rainy day and when I told him what I was going to do he
>tells me that he usually justs runs the KW engine flush and then adds
>new oil. Said he does it with all his engines and it works great.
>Quicker, easier, and less wasted oil. So I head to the local (?)
>AutoZone to get a can of this stuff. The guy at AutoZone asks how many
>miles do I have on the vehicle. I proudly say 180K. He goes, WOAH, you
>don't want to use this stuff on a high mileage engine. Some of the
>junk
>that's in there (my engine) is probably holding things together. Clear
>out the junk and your gonna end up with leaks and troubles. Sells me
>this much less expensive bottle of CD2 oil treatment that you add to
>current oil, drive around a while up to 2000 miles), drain and refill
>with your new oil.
>
>So now I'm totally confused. Tell me what to do List. I want the voice
>of Vanagon experience.
>
>Is there any truth to the claim that the gunk is holding things
>together
>in there? And if so, how does the CD2 know which gunk to clean out and
>which gunk to leave alone?
>What are the benefits to the AFT/MMO over the KW Engine Flush? My
>lifter
>only taps occassionally and the van is just a little sluggish - should
>I
>bother?
>
>Any experience is greatly appreciated.
>TIA,
>Peace - donna
>'84 Westy (Pepe)
________________________________________________________________
YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET!
Juno now offers FREE Internet Access!
Try it today - there's no risk! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
|