Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 23:20:46 -0500
Reply-To: SpaceKommander <jboldway@cottagesoft.com>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: SpaceKommander <jboldway@cottagesoft.com>
Subject: Assorted comments
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Hello all, purchased an '85 westy "Panzerkampingwagen" about two months
ago. Here's a reply to some of the things I've seen on the list so far -
engine life and RPM - it's more of a deal where going more than low 60's
costs much more in gas (19.0 mpg at 60 versus 14 mpg at 70 for mine) than
in engine wear. Most engine wear comes in starting, not in running. That's
one of the reasons police cars aren't turned off much. I would recommend
frequent oil changes (always change both oil and filter) as the best
preventative medicine. Also allow for the motor to warm up before you crank
on it. If you live in some subdevelopment that you go a minute from your
house to a 55 + mph highway you're going to toast your engine fast. The
previous owner bought my vanagon when it had about 110K miles on it (driven
in Colorado), and he consistently drove it hard and fast - he seemed to
have the attitude that the gas pedal was a "switch," with two positions -
"on " and "off." I picked it up when it had 190K plus miles (dead odometer,
just sure it has at least 190K) and it still runs strong. Hunts a bit at
idle, which is another thing I wanted to mention. I noticed that the
throttle body is downstream of the mass airflow sensor, and the throttle
body shaft is worn enough that it rocks around in the body. This leads me
to believe that enough air is getting in at idle through the slop between
the throttle body shaft and the throttle body itself to bung up the idle
mixture. The O2 sensor was disconnected when I bought it - maybe to try
and richen up the idle mixture? Just a thought . . . .
I'm usually in "lurk" mode on this list as I'm interested in learning about
tips, tricks and repairs on my PanzerKampingWagen. However, it seems to
have gotten a bit out of hand with too many non-vanagon related emails (the
"M" thing), and just too much email as people will reply to a message
that's been replied to before - so I get to read the same thing over and
over . . . .
Back to Vanagon content . . . so, what do people DO to have such problems
with engine, transmission, etc? I have owned a few bugs earlier in life and
only had problems with motors exploding due to excessive performance mods.
Even with a motor putting out over 100 hp and driven by a madman (me) the
transmission never failed.
Had Michelin *&^% tyres - whatever, the ones everybody wants. Anyway, they
were a little cracked and the rear ones were worn much more than the front
so I got a pair of Michelin 185R14C Agilis for the rear. Van details -
brand new KYB shocks front and rear. The KYB made a big difference in
tightening up the rear end on the highway, especially in crosswinds, which
can be QUITE high and gusty here in Wichita, Kansas. The new Agilis tyres
are a tiny bit looser in the rear, especially if you yank on the wheel you
can feel the rear squirm. Highway gusts yield a ride 3/4 way between
original michelins with dead rear shocks and ride givn by old michelins and
new rear KYB shocks (at 65 MPH). Breeze today, about 15-20 mph steady with
gusts to about 30 or 35 I'd guess. I was driving on the highway and was
getting 90 degree crosswinds. Oh, and this ride was with only about 200 lbs
of stuff in the camper and just myself. I think this tyre would be just
fine - if I was loaded down and it was windy I'd just slow down to 55 MPH .
. . . Put new KYB shocks in front to replace Sachs. Helped "A little."
Still have the front end "drop" when honking on the brakes, but sway is
less, and rapid turns in steering wheel at highway speeds result in tyre
squirm rather than body roll.
Installed rear shocks myself, was about to install front shocks when I
discovered that my jackstands and floor jack wouldn't lift this critter
high enough to get front shocks out easily. Went to NTB (National Tire and
Battery, owned by Sears, I think) as I've had good luck dealing with them
before on tyres and battery for my Cadillac - anyway, get this - they
charged me a total of TWENTY DOLLARS to install both front shocks. Did a
damn fine job, even put old boots onto new shocks and greased bolts so
later they can be removed . . . I'm a happy camper. They treat me right, I
treat them right. I give the mechanic(s) who work on my car a $10 spot as a
tip. Maybe I'm throwing my money away, maybe I do it because I appreciate
somebody who has mechanical skills and think that maybe they will remember
me next time they work on my car . . . and will take the extra time to do
the job right or give me the honest scoop. Brought the Caddy in for brakes
as some of the wheels were making a scraping noise and chirp common to when
pads were worn out. They put it on lift and came out and told me that
brakes were just a bit glazed over from old age and didn't need replacing.
They pulled off pads and resurfaced them. No $250 job, a $30 brake
inspection and adjustment and I was on my way. There still are nice, honest
people out there.
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