Date:         Fri, 11 Aug 2000 12:34:38 EDT
Reply-To:     T517CALN@aol.com
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Tom Callan <T517CALN@aol.com>
Subject:      oil light & buzzer
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"

Help!

Original owner of a 91 Vanagon Carat. After 129k of problem free driving, I
had a whine in the rear end and a main Eng. seal blown. Since engine was to
be pulled to fix the oil seal, I elected to put in a factory rebuilt engine
and a new gear in the rear end to fix the whine. New clutch too. Previously
used Fram or equivalent filters and a variety of 10-30 Wt oils - always
changed at 3000 mi. - oil light & buzzer worked fine, I never even knew they
were there.

Local VW dealer did work. Within a month had oil light & buzzer problem after
leaving the freeway and driving at slower speeds. Stopped the car, called the
dealer and he picked up the van on a trailer. He ordered and installed a new
engine. Next engine did the same thing and again he replaced the engine with
a new factory rebuilt engine. This time the engine worked OK till I changed
the oil. I bring it back - dealer changes the oil and solves the problem.
This is the first time I've heard that I should be using Castrol 20-50wt oil
and factory filter. A year went past before the problem reoccurred even
though I was using the correct oil & filter. I was off warranty for engine
now so only verified oil pressure was correct and have been living with the
problem. Just heard about the list and your web site. Is there a solution?

I have 195k on the Vanagon - 66k on the engine
The temp gauge runs at mid position - a needle width higher on 100 degree
days    (same as original engine)
The light and buzzer come on when rpm drops below 2200 to 2800 depending on
time I've been driving at highway speed and temperature of the engine
If at a stop with the sensors on (light & buzzer), if I race the engine to
around 3000     rpm and back to idle again it resets the system and light and
horn are out. Symptoms reappear after shifting through the gears and then
slowing through the     2200 - 2800 rpm range

Once heard that the factory rebuilt engine might have temperature sensors
that are not compatible with my wiring system and that I should replace both
temp sensors and the pressure relief valve & spring.

Any ideas? I think the dealer used some sort of additive to get me through
the warranty - he denies it!

Thanks,
Tom Callan
Houston, Tx