Vanagon EuroVan
Previous messageNext messagePrevious in topicNext in topicPrevious by same authorNext by same authorPrevious page (August 2000, week 3)Back to main VANAGON pageJoin or leave VANAGON (or change settings)ReplyPost a new messageSearchProportional fontNon-proportional font
Date:         Sun, 20 Aug 2000 02:11:20 EDT
Reply-To:     Wolfvan88@aol.com
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Robert Lilley <Wolfvan88@aol.com>
Subject:      PROOF that Gene Berg LIKED WBX engines....
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"

Go to:

-http://www.geneberg.com/

Then click on:

-Tech Tips

Then click on:

- Crankshaft Knowledge

Then scroll down to:

-Gene Berg Forged Cranks

Then towards the bottom of the paragraph. GBE will make a crank FOR the Waterboxer engine... If he did NOT LIKE them, they would not BUILD one would they...plus they also have a FI replacement for the DF and DJ FI systems...and other go fast goodies...

I also challenge you to read the article about counter-weighting, and then tell me the counterweights would not needed, especially for the 2.1L that tend to throw rods...

Tom Wilson's statement about when to use counterweights in his book deals with FACTORY rebuilds, AND DOES NOT apply to "Hot rodded" engines OR the WBX ENGINE. Bearings wear out from the crank flexing and causing the crank to pound the bearing out, in the T1 engines with softer cases, the saddles that hold the bearing actually get ovaled out. In the WBX the bearings get pounded out. This causes the LOW OIL pressure at idle and as the engine revs (if it is not the sensor, wrong oil or oil filter). As the bearing get pounded out, the bearings get so lose that oil pressure cannot be built to keep the main and rod bearings from hitting the crank and not enough pressure is built at running higher RPMs (The machinist that did some work on my engine said the rule of thumb for RACING and street engines is 10 PSI for every 1000 RPMs.) A major difference in the WBX over the Air-cooled-T1 is that the piston clearance are MUCH tighter than the aircooled., so any crank flexing on the 2.1L stresses the pistons and rods more than aircooled. AND if you are concerned SIMPLY use the 1.9 rod bolts in the 2.1L rod.

You could also get a set of $250 lightweight racing rods that can see 10,000 RPMs and live to tell about it...If I only ditched the Digifant and the stock rods, used dual-dual throat turboed digital fuel injection throttle bodies, used solid lifters, custom exhaust, then 10,000 in first, second, third ...whoops, its late and I am daydreaming, no night dreaming...

VW SHOULD have put CW on the 2.1L engines period. If you are going to build a 2.1L engine, for the $150, CWs and balancing are a must have if you plan to increase the power much beyond stock.

CW and balance Cost per mile= $250 x 150,000 miles = $.00167 200,000 $0.00125

Here is the cost for upgrades VS mileage per cost $1500 of up grades x 200,000 miles = $0.0075 per mile $2000 of upgrades x 200,000 miles = $0.01 per mile $4000 of upgrades x 200,000 miles = $0.01 per mile $10,000 of upgrades x 200,000 miles = $0.05 per mile

Later,

Robert


Back to: Top of message | Previous page | Main VANAGON page

Please note - During the past 17 years of operation, several gigabytes of Vanagon mail messages have been archived. Searching the entire collection will take up to five minutes to complete. Please be patient!


Return to the archives @ gerry.vanagon.com


The vanagon mailing list archives are copyright (c) 1994-2011, and may not be reproduced without the express written permission of the list administrators. Posting messages to this mailing list grants a license to the mailing list administrators to reproduce the message in a compilation, either printed or electronic. All compilations will be not-for-profit, with any excess proceeds going to the Vanagon mailing list.

Any profits from list compilations go exclusively towards the management and operation of the Vanagon mailing list and vanagon mailing list web site.