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Date:         Mon, 21 Aug 2000 17:57:46 PDT
Reply-To:     Mark Dorm <mark_hb@hotmail.com>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Mark Dorm <mark_hb@hotmail.com>
Subject:      Re: READ THIS: How to throw a rod--update and prevention
Comments: To: macmillan@home.com
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed

Hey my PO did the head gaskets - any chance these nuts were tightened then - I have 108K miles on a 2.1 and bought it with less than 90K. Also: if I have an oil pressure gauge - exactly how is that going to help me? Is it just going to save the cost of the core ($500) or will it do more???

>From: Stuart MacMillan <macmillan@home.com> > >Well, I disassembled the poor 2.1 engine I destroyed a week ago, and it >turns out the rod failure was indeed caused by a rod bolt, but it did >not break, the nut came off! This could only happen from "bolt stretch" >that allowed the nut to loosen and eventually come off. > >I'm with Bob Donalds on these bolts causing the vast majority of 2.1 >catastrophic failures. The "torque to stretch" rod bolts used in the >2.1 are USELESS, and even worse, a time bomb sitting in every stock 2.1 >engine just waiting to go off and cause total destruction. I don't know >if they offer any assembly efficiencies for the manufacturer or are just >a "planned obsolescence" device. > >When one of the #1 rod nuts came off the bolt did too of course, and it >was thrust up through the top of the case by the crank counterweights >where it was embedded, hence I was able to recover the bolt and nut and >know it did not break. After that #4 got hit by some shrapnel from the >rod and the cylinder fractured, taking out half the cam along with it as >well as knocking two more holes in the top of the case. The resulting >oil/coolant emulsion was then sprayed all over the engine compartment. >I took me all day Sunday just to clean things up in preparation for a >new engine. > >So, I cannot stress this enough: For those of you that have a factory >2.1 with more than 100,000 miles on it (the consensus is these engines >are good for between 125,000 and 150,000 miles) I strongly recommend >that you do two things: > >1: Install an oil pressure gauge!!! This will tell you more than >anything else about the condition of the bearings in your engine, and >can help you avoid catastrophic failure. 2: Start a savings plan for >that rebuild BEFORE 150,000 miles, and make sure that the "stretch to >torque" rod bolts are not used in the rebuild, substitute the >conventional 1.9 engine rod bolts. > >Rebuildable 2.1 cores are getting scarce for this reason. If you >destroy yours it not only will be difficult to find another engine, but >it will cost you the core charge as well, at least another $500. > >I have some interesting pictures of the remains of this engine, I'll >send them to anyone who would like post them on their web site if there >is any interest. > >-- >Stuart MacMillan >Seattle > >'84 Vanagon Westfalia >'65 MGB (Driven since 1969) >'74 MGB GT (Restoring) > >Assisting on Restoration: >'72 MGB GT (Daughter's) >'64 MGB (Son's) > >Parts cars: >'68 & '73 MGB, '67 MGB GT

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