Date:         Sat, 2 Sep 2000 18:20:40 EDT
Reply-To:     TSmith5041@AOL.COM
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Tom Smith <TSmith5041@AOL.COM>
Subject:      Re: Re; Body Seam Sealing
Comments: To: CTONLINE@webtv.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"

In a message dated 9/2/00 12:23:42 PM, CTONLINE@WEBTV.NET writes:

<<3-m has a product that is bullet proof for this application.
It is Body panel adhesive, which is manufactured to glue two panels
together without welding.
The technique to apply would be;
Put a couple of layers of masking tape on either side of the seam, and
with a razor knife, cut out the old seam sealer.
scratch up the inside of the seam as deep as possible with 180
sandpaper, folded in half to get both sides of the seam.
apply a nice even bead, of sealer into the seam.
wet your finger with some mineral spirits and from the bottom of the
panel, tothe top, wipe the seam smooth.
It takes this stuff about 8 to 10 minutes to set up, so just prior to
being completely hard, remove the masking tape.
You can then wipe the edge's smooth with some more mineral spirits, or
sand the edges with 600 paper.
This seal sealer displaces water, so from the out side any way it will
last.
A good idea, also, would be to seal the back side of the seam with spray
on bed liner. Its a spray on polyurethane, and I used it to seal my
wheel wells, and works good and is easy to apply. Should help keep the
water from coming in from the inside of the seam.
The 3-M part number for the seam sealer is; # 8115, available at any
body shop supply.

Terry

85 GL
-----------------------------------------------------
>>

This looks to me like a good plan. The only thing I might add is after
cleaning the inside of the seam then take a small brush and some touch-up
paint and flow it into the seam. If it's too thick, thin it with some lacquer
thinner or toluene.  The bare metal will continue to rust even behind the
sealer.

Tom Smith
83.5 Westie